I came across this on the internet. Was a bit blurry & could only just expand it enough to read but maybe it can be expanded larger somehow as was just getting better at max on my computer.
Its probably nothing we don't already know but anyway, i had to suffer reading it so now you can too if you want.
photos.app.goo.gl/VHi4sx4PWCsbFB757
Was on facebook so here's that link too now i've gone to the trouble of saving each page onto google photos then making an album & linking, when i could've just done the facebook page in the first place haha. Must be past sleep time.www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=815366340797...pcb.2743043789205129
Some interesting stuff if you click on his page here too.
www.facebook.com/groups/697386737104188/user/100000076176270/

Thanks RT325.  I remember reading that article many years ago and used the technique many times before I had other tools. (except greasing the crank taper which probably isn't a good idea.) 

RT325, I replaced the condenser (that one on there is already a new one), but if I replace it again, I will definitely reroute the wiring toward the points differently. And if I understand you right, no I didn't rewind the source coil myself; that's just how it was when I got the bike. I guess you're saying it looks to be in good shape?

MarkT, the continuity tests were meant to determine if the signal or charge or whatever was getting to the intended component successfully; that it wasn't grounding out somewhere. To eliminate shorting out possibilities.

Update: yesterday I did the drill-starting trick (going counter-clockwise) to try and get a spark. Nothing. Will take off the cylinder head today and reset BTDC and points again to see if that has any effect.

If you connect one lead of a "continuity tester" to the black stator wire that goes to the ignition coil... or the points terminal...  or the condenser...  and the other lead of the continuity tester to ground (i.e. stator plate), you will have continuity to ground everywhere.   It's really not telling you anything.  You could not tell if you had a short to ground with a continuity tester.

That's why you need a proper ohmmeter....  resistance to ground from black wire will be zero ohms with points closed and about 1 to 2 ohms (usually closer to 2 ohms or a little more than 2) with points open.  If you had a short, you'd have zero ohms with points open. 

Please listen to RT325 on the wire routing.  Look for pics of original stators or one that DEET rebuilt.  The points wire really needs to be tucked away well.  I've seen insulation rubbed in such a way that points wire looks perfectly fine but a microscopic hole in the insulation allows the spike of high primary voltage to jump to ground instead of getting to the ignition coil. 

I say "microscopic hole" because once I had an ignition where the points wire was routed incorrectly... close inspection did not reveal any flaws in the wire insulation.  As a last resort, the wire was replaced and routed correctly and the spark was back.  Coincidence?  Could have been. But that was the only thing that was changed and it fixed it.  

Houston, we have spark! Tried kicking about 10 times and gave up. I'll find a steep hill somewhere and pop the clutch soon. Mark, a DEET rebuilt stator pic is what I tried to follow. But at least the one I found, he had every replaced wire as white, and I couldn't tell what went where, route wise. Like I said, I took a few pics before I tore it apart, plus drew a diagram and labeled and measured every original wire before starting my rebuild. I have spark now and that's encouraging. From here, it's just getting her to turn over.

"The old grey mare, she ain't what she used to be:"
flic.kr/p/2pS4v2k

That's encouraging, congrats. Next thing is brmm brmm. 
Just a warning. Be sure to tighten the flywheel nice & tight or you'll be chasing more problems if it runs then gives up when you're in the forest or down the road pushing home.
 

Oh yeah, flywheel nut is tight. What does anyone think about me spraying "starter fluid," which I guess is choke/carb cleaner, into the carb opening where the air box attaches to try to get it to kick over? Bad idea? Useless?

Choke/carb cleaner tends to KILL a running engine.  It is not the same as "starter fluid".

Starter fluid contains ether, highly flammable and explosive...  can be hard on the engine but I've never seen any damage personally...  some people warn against it's use. 

I have a friend that swears by WD40 as starter fluid.  I'm not sure it's anywhere near as good as the real stuff but certainly better than carb cleaner.