Mark, I looked back and failed to mention this is a DT3 we're talking about, not a CT2. About the lighting coil, a previous owner had soldered a wire and terminal from the stator's ignition coil 1 copper winding and screwed it to the coil's mounting screw for, I assume, grounding. I removed this and soldered the copper wire to the little square tab on the coil's inner curve (where all the stacked pieces are).

First short vid "only a link" is kicking it over through compression with 'points bridged' & unhooked from the plug coil
Goes to close to 15AC volts with a good kick. 175cc lots of comp.
youtube.com/shorts/MyJ_KtM3DwY
Second is of having it plugged into plug coil.
Still had 'points bridged' & not sure now if plug lead was 'off or on the plug' but think it was off.
Got up to close to 7AC volts
 So effectively testing the source coil output.

Third video is of it running but using my peak meter so read double volts compared to a normal meter i used for the other two tests.
Now i watch it i see it goes to 100 peak volts running so 50 normal AC volts. Think i'm right!!?? lol.



 

I've edited numerous time making a mess of it all but think it's ok now.
Sorry for ALL the confusion.
Plenty more confusion where that came from haha.

Some of the bikes had stator ignition and lighting coils wired together.  I'm not sure if that's what you undid or not.  Really hard to know what's going on...  if you send it to DEET he can probably rebuild it. 

Good thought 'that', but earthing it on its own it would be ok for getting spark.
I've got my 250 & 360 using the source only but i removed the lighting coils so don't know how it would've affected the running of the lights except i think the lighting coils originaly are earths to the mount screw or to a soldered earth tab so in theory light should be good too.
Theory is a wonderful thing!!.
But the question must be asked--where does that ignition source coil earth wire go that originaly earths within the lighting coil on older 250's, not sure about 175's.
Be interesting to unwind a lighting coil out of curiosity.
Then again, curiosity killed the cat so they say.

A little update. Using a continuity tester, I tested the new points (tester lit up), the source coil (tester lit up) and the black wire from the stator harness that runs to the stator (tester lit up). So by now I've replaced the points, ignition coil, spark plug and boot. I even today de-soldered that ignition coil 1 copper winding "fix" that I did earlier and put it back the way it was when the bike ran, that is, grounded the copper wire under the mounting screw of ignition coil 1. Put everything back together and - still no spark.

I know everyone's next suggetion is to give up and send it to Deet to be rebuilt. Thing is, I rebuilt it myself (there's your problem, you're saying). But I photographed everything beforehand, cleaned and rewired everything to the exact wire lengths and routing as when the thing ran. I used the proper connectors and wire colors and gauges. It SHOULD run. That's what we all say, though, right? Uggghhh!

Before:
flic.kr/p/2pRrCns

After:
flic.kr/p/2pRjR3Z

 

Go on make it battery ignition & lighting coil should keep the battery up. Easy job just need a dc 6volt coil & job done.

You're trying to speak to me, I know it!

I hadn't seen the pics till now but i'd change where the blue wire goes to get to the points or crank or cam might rub it.
Just go hard down by the condenser & across the back then up to the points. Looking forward to hearing she sparks at last.
I'd love to have the ability to rewind coils. Top marks if you did that source coil yourself.

I'm lost on the update with continuity tester data.  I'm not sure what those tests were meant to show.