Don't worry about all the wires. You could unplug everything but the black (sometimes black/white) that connects the points to the coil. If you have spark, you've got the wiring right. None of the other wires have anything to do with it running.

If you have the flywheel key in and max point gap at 0.013" then timing is probably not correct but should be close enough to run.

Make sure spark plug is gapped 0.020" to 0.024" and as was previously mentioned sometimes plug will fire outside the engine but not under compression. Try a different plug. Sometimes even new plugs are bad

Could just be flooded too.

Those wires look good is it a new spark plug did you use a keyster carb rebuild kit. Is your spark plug wet? 
 Sorry MarkT typing same time

Yep my guess is flooded.
But on the other hand it could've pushed out a crank seal. Left side [if it can get out past the stator plate] will just let air in.
Right side will let the transmission oil in. But won't run regardless if one or other are fully out.
Crank key ok for the flywheel [determines if the timing is in the ball park].
If its flooded plug will be wet. Mind you be wet too if right side seal is letting oil in--so oil wet & probably a lot of compression on the kickstart with extra oil compressing.

Interesting point about the seals...I replaced both sides with new as i did have a clutch side leak that filled the crank with oil over 10 years. I actually got the bike to fire up for ~3 seconds or so on starter fluid 2nd kick after rebuild, then i completed the bike and it never fired up again. Compression is 110 psi, with newly honed cylinder, piston, and rings, that have not seated yet. Piston is not wet with any clutch oil when inspected though the intake and exhaust ports.

Ill inspect the seals, strangest thing is that i felt really good after i got it fired, but then never fired up again after that 1 time, no visible damage to piston and compression is 110 psi. Anyone else have something like this happen?

If you're getting spark with the plug removed and it's not firing I'd disconnect the ignition switch, replace the plug and inspect/cut back both ends of the wire between the coil and spark plug boot, to make sure it's getting a good solid connection from the coil. Or just replace it and the spark plug boot if it's original, they are pretty cheap.

Flooding should be visible on the plug after attempting to start it and pulling the plug.

Still wondering if the flywheel key let go just before you stopped it. Still think you'd get a fart or an explosion & even blow the exhaust off at the port--or try to.
Original oil in the crankcase would 'usually' be the oil tank gravity feeding in--but maybe not in your case.
I've never done it but wonder if you could blow compressed air in the breather on the transmission & 'with the reed block out' listen for air entering the c/case. Or if ya gentle with the air & stop start to see if its pressurizing the trans & coming back out the breather which confirms the seal is in place.
I'm over complicating it.
Check flywheel key.

Have you tried any of our suggestions if so what I see you said you rebuilt your carb did you use the keyster brand more pictures or video would help 
stator, coil and spark plug pictures 

I have tried many of the suggestions, I did a carb rebuild with the keester rebuild kit, and I have a spare carburetor I bought on eBay, both with the same results. I have tried two different spark plugs I replaced the ignition coil I reinspected my magneto side seal, which is still in the same spot I put it when I replaced it, and I did a vacuum hold check on the clutch side and it held vacuum for over three minutes. I used the dial indicator to find top dead center and noticed it was very far out of alignment with the mark on the rotor and stator.  I marked the rotor with where the stator line was just so you could see it in the picture. I did notice that my point “ foot” (part that drags in the cam) looks really worn down compared to a new one. Could that have anything to do with this?  Open to othe suggestions.. keep them coming

I'm just curious how the heck you do a "vacuum hold check on the clutch side"?

i guess you proved it has good sprocket & kick start seals too, & oil pump seal, & pushrod seal [what else have i forgotten] & crank seal--via the breather tube. I can't talk--i'm useless & i've never done a vacuum test'--or a pressure test for that matter.

Anyway--looking at the pics i'll go check some google images but just looks wrong to me like the stator plate is miles around anticlockwise.
From what i can see expanding the pics it looks way around just referencing the part of the crankcase i can make out.
I must be wrong--i'll go looking. Think my 250 mark is way back around clockwise.
Ignore if i'm dreaming--i know yours is a 175 looking at the flywheel.
Can i just add--expanding the pic it looks like the crank seal is a long way in past flush. I guess that's the least of the problems at the moment so don't dwell on it.Hopefully not touching the cage & plenty of oil mix in there. Or im not seeing it quite as it is on my computer.