Im not getting a spark after armature / stator issue so I am wanting to make sure the points and timing are perfect.
I set points to .012 and have my dial indicator set 1.80 BTDC and have a sound box to identify where I am.
I have a manual and looked on line on where to hook up the + wire from my timing box. My book says TERMINAL 1 but doesn't show what they are referring too... so I guessed and pulled the big green starter(?) wire from the terminal strip, left side.

Nothing different... Tried a few more and nothing... Any help? Also is there a fuse on the bike?
No specific videos either.

 


Here’s a page from the Yamaha shop manual looking at the picture your +positive hooks to your points and ground your other wire

thanks...

Your welcome also be sure your governor is fully advanced when setting your timing 

Sounds like your main problem is No Spark, which timing has little or nothing to do with at this stage. So first you need 12volts [or any volts within reason--battery with a bit of life] & have that feeding into the coil [plug coil]. Then otherside of coil should be live down to the points & at the points. Then flick them with a screwdriver & it should spark at the plug. Even if they're dirty & not contacting, the screwdriver will bridge things & get a result. Might not read full voltage at the poins wire as has just come through the coil resistance to get there but gotta be live. worry about timing after that but doubt you're far out as it is, & 1.8 is right.

I had a spark before changing crank seals and brushes. I even had a on and off spark afterwards but I looked for a fuse and couldn't find one. I assume its under the seat.... I will look again because it sure seems I lost a fuse.

Got my spark back but tried every way to time it with the box and my dial indicator with no luck. Thanks all

Dial indicator is no use on an angled plug hole. I'd simply use something as vertical as you can get it through the angled hole & you get good at rocking it on tdc to find true tdc as near as damn it. Mark your thingy--so have tdc mark then make a second mark at 'just' under 2mm higher up on your rod/wire/ mums knitting needle.Then turn crank clockwise [turn to the right] untill the 2mm mark reaches plug hole edge [or whatever you used as a refference point]. Hold the advance weights open best way ya can. Maybe sneak another knitting needle & bend it so it holds the weights fully open. Your points should be breaking at that moment. But everything is adjustable on those old girls so set points at 15 max then find your 1.8mm btdc then you can move the base plate around to get them just opening at that moment. Easy peasy--i did it 50 years ago ya know lol.

What kind of "box" are you trying to use?  All you need is a voltmeter or simple test light on that model. 

Magneto models are different. 

You want to hook onto the orange wire. You can trace it back and see that it goes to the top of the points. The condenser wire is probaly attached at the top of the points too - I moved it to the terminal strip at the top where the other end of the little orange wire attaches.

My condenser wire had been routed a bit too closely to the advance mechanism, and the insulation had worn through, shorting the points intermittently. The points were badly pitted due to this, and needed replacing. Good to give that a look.

I wrapped some tape around the base of my cheap HF dial gauge until it fit snugly in the plug hole - not perfect - but well enough to do the job.

I found it easier to note the position of the gauge needle at tdc, and then drop it ( turn CW ) a full rev of the gauge dial ( .100 ), and then add .020 back to end up at .080 BTDC. Your only going to be moving it back about 20 degrees.

You should be able to pull the flyweights out with your fingers and rock the engine around that point and hear / see the points opening using your meter / light.

I took the opportunity to clean and lube ( very lightly ) the advance mechanism. I polished up the cam with some fine steel wool, and put some oil on the felt strip. That needed adjusting too - it looked like it had not been touching the cam for a long time.

My bike is running much better now. I hope yours will be soon as well!