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Makotosun

1972 AT2 Carburetor Question

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Replied by RT325 on topic 1972 AT2 Carburetor Question

Writing got a bit separated. Starts up the side there.
26 Aug 2021 21:36 #11

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Replied by Carbodog on topic 1972 AT2 Carburetor Question

Thanks a lot for the tips. I have new crank seals on order so I will probably replace them as soon as they come in. That will give me a reason to pull the clutch and check it. The clutch lever is pretty hard to pull and I don't think it is the cable. Do you think I should just replace the clutch regardless since it is almost 50 years old?

I am amazed how nice these old bikes clean up. The chrome on the front wheel was a disaster when I started and now it looks like new. I can see why working on these old works of art is so addictive. I am going to have to start hitting some of the estate sales around here to see if I can a new project when this one is done

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Thanks again
 
26 Aug 2021 21:49 #12

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Replied by adguy2112 on topic 1972 AT2 Carburetor Question

Even if the cable housing looks okay in my opinion it’s still likely the cable causing a stiff clutch. KDI productions has the color correct cables for your bike. You’d be surprised how much easier the clutch will operate with a new cable.  Certainly could try to lubricate the one you have and check if the routing is pinching. Wouldn’t hurt to check the plates and see if the sprocket side is gunked up if/when you swap out the cable, 
27 Aug 2021 00:02 #13

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Replied by RT325 on topic 1972 AT2 Carburetor Question

Yep fully agree with cable--can't beat a new cable. Plus the operating actuator where the cable pulls to operate the pushrod, & get some lube into 'that' mechanism. Nothing in the clutch itself that'll cause it to get harder to pull.
27 Aug 2021 01:22 #14

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Replied by Carbodog on topic 1972 AT2 Carburetor Question

Got it. Thanks for the help.
27 Aug 2021 07:04 #15

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Replied by Carbodog on topic 1972 AT2 Carburetor Question

You guys were right about the clutch cable. The old one was pretty gunked up and the new one slides like butter.

I ran into a problem trying to remove the clutch push screw. I removed everything that appeared to be holding it together but the push screw will still not come out. Is there a trick to it? I assume the plastic part in the first picture is supposed to come off/out but it does not want to move and since it is plastic, I don't want to pry on it and break it. I tried tapping it with a screw driver handle but still didn't let go. Again I don't want to get too aggressive and break it.

Thanks

 

 
01 Sep 2021 11:50 #16

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Replied by Gr8uncleal on topic 1972 AT2 Carburetor Question

If it's like the RD125/200 of the same era, I don't think that it comes out unless you grind away the peaned area in your second photo. Any replacement, I believe, has to be peaned to keep it in place. On my own RD125, I couldn't be arsed with all the faff, so just bought a nos cover!

Any reason why you want to take it out? It all looks in decent nick. 
01 Sep 2021 12:07 #17

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Replied by Sneezles61 on topic 1972 AT2 Carburetor Question

So you can't put a socket, the size of the shaft, on the plastic side and a couple gentle big heavy hammer swings to "push it" back out? 
I've not done one... yet..
Sneezles61
01 Sep 2021 12:15 #18

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Replied by Gr8uncleal on topic 1972 AT2 Carburetor Question

If its like my RD, the mechanism fouls against the case before it reaches the end of the thread.
01 Sep 2021 12:54 #19

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Replied by Carbodog on topic 1972 AT2 Carburetor Question

The only reason for taking it out is the oil seal looks pretty bad. Do you think that seal really all that important since I don't really want to risk destruction of that part?
01 Sep 2021 13:28 #20

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