Has anybody purchased a re- pop gas tank from India? If so do they fit correctly, not leak and look good enough for a 100 point restoration? There are several sellers on eBay for vintage enduros painted original colors, do they match well?

how much is an india tank? i got a vintage tank for 69 and the dents give it a vintage feel. tanks are expensive. i paid 120 and a peacock was 20 so i guess my tanks worth 140. its in way nicer shape inside than thought i would find. i had to gasket seal the peacock. i just grinded down an extra flywheel taking it apart so i could see points to set timing right. now i gotta try again with tank on and see if i get going. we are having extensive rain this minute so i got on here

On the repro tanks, my take is if you get one that holds fuel, fits the bike, and looks similar to the original, you've done well.  What I've seen (pictures) do not appear to be anywhere near the level needed for a "100 point restoration".  

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..........just grinded down an extra flywheel taking it apart so i could see points to set timing right................

I went down this path years ago.  You can't "see" anything that helps you get the timing right.  And even if the method does get you "close", there is no guarantee the full flywheel is exactly the same or even that the keyway will align perfectly the same every time (Yamaha recommends re-timing after flywheel is removed and replaced.)

The biggest factor is that the points actually open several degrees *before* you can "see" them open.  Easiest method by far is an aircraft magneto points tool that gives you and audible and visual indicator of the exact moment the points open.  (It does this by measuring the change in inductance when the points open). www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/synchronizer.php

A close second is an analog meter that has a setting to measure resistance with an Rx1 scale (NOT Rx10!!) which is what Yamaha used and still works perfectly today. (can be had for less than $20) www.amazon.com/Tekpower-8-Function-19-Ra...-TRE-B/dp/B00RH7RFK2

These methods also have the benefit of being able to check for shorts and verify the points are making good contact when closed (points not making good contact causes at least 90% of the "no spark" issues and is something you can't "see" without a meter)

Thanks exactly the kind of feed back I was looking fore. But, disappointed not good enough for a 100 point restoration which it were I’m going with my bikes at this time. 

i think an original tank around 350 bucks would be way to go about being 100 point. i think thats what a perfect one would cost on ebay. i bought an oil tank completely had on ebay. wonder if anyone collects oil tank off these because i got burned bad on one. the pictures didnt look too bad but when i got it man i got ripped 35 bucks.

i didnt see any on ebay in top condition. they want 325 for a blue 76 400 tank with a little rust under.

and 200 for a yellow and back tank with a dent

i got a red tank says yahama in white and gonna do a white seat and white grips so bikes red white and black here. got a few dents in tank and one dent on muffler. i gotta weld a bracket for muffler as people just cut off old muffler. im peacing together bike as i got frame and engine local but all other stuff off ebay so far its adding up.

They are on eBay now but only have ct175 and Dr 400 tanks, they said they can make me a dt250 tank with pictures sent to them, 3-4 different manufacturers sell them price range 236-434. If you have other vintage bikes they also re-pop Elsinore, Husky and TT500 tanks plus others. 

yeah man they add up. i saw a bike like these a 360 one listed local for 4800 and it was in perfect condition. is bike for you or do you sell it. i think internet said 250s are like 2900 in ok condition. im just trying to use mine if i ever get it going. in process of building seat and setting timing. i had multimeter heck and had to buy a new one. however the new one gives me 1.5 ohms and when points open it doesnt move to zero. but if i push points open until it hits a screw it gives .5 ohms. anyhow mulitmeter heck here since its not zeroing out. once rain stops tomorrow maybe it will fire. i bought a guage to measure 3.2mm before tdc. maybe i can rig somekinda light if i have more time trouble. if your trying to sell i think india tank is way to perfection.

I plan on keeping the 69 enduro and the dt1-CM, but those plans usually hold true until something catches my eye. Had 33 motorcycles now down to these two, a WR250R and a PW50 for my grandson. But, plan riding the mx and enduro on my property. If my grandson gets excited on riding I plan on taking the tractor and building a MX track for us to ride on. We live in the forest amongst the redwoods, should be a nice setting for a MX track. 

Gusto wrote: "............however the new one gives me 1.5 ohms and when points open it doesnt move to zero.............."

Zero the analog meter first.  With points closed, ohms reading should be 0.  With points open the reading should be roughly between 1 and 2 ohms.