I might be wrong but FJ60 sounds needle jet. Pilot is the very small screw out one up in the body with numbers like 25 35 40 etc but no letters. If opening the choke only makes it rev it points to the fixed jet in the bowl cavity being blocked. But then again if the idle speed is wound up through being lean then I guess opening choke 'if not blocked' could add fuel plus air & yep make it rev. If choke jet is blocked & idle cranked up to keep it running then extra choke air would likely stop it. Sorry I'm making a simple story complicated as usual.

No apologies necessary, I'm just so thankful to be hashing this out with another brain more experienced than mine. Attached is a photo of the jet and location I'm referring to for the pilot jet: imgur.com/a/629ObFD

I blew out the choke jet and it seems clear as well, next step would just be disassembling the whole choke.

I also bought a smaller carb that I believe would be stock. I could always give up on the VM30 and keep on my train of returning everything to stock.

Ok thanks i'm on the same page lol. I didn't realise you were using that type of carb, thought original that has the side mounted easily removable main jet. All good. #60 sounds big for a pilot on a 125 but i guess a big carb has slower air flow so needs a bigger jet [someone told me that once] & sounds right 'me thinks'. Plus advanced inlet porting of the MX cylinder slows flow at low speed. Happy to be corrected though.

Sound like you have an air leak
 

RT325, Yeah I mean that carb just came with the bike so I'm going to swap on something more stock since I have it and see what happens. Also just to clarify, the engine is a CT175 early piston port style (CT1 stamped) so it is a bit bigger than the MX and not sure if that changes any of your advice.

Mark T, I thought so to! I just feel like I've gone through EVERYTHING at this point and all new gaskets and proper torque and faced surfaces and and and... carb cleaner sprayed around shows no evidence of an air leak.

SO I'll try to toss on that stock carb tonight and report back. It's used so I have to go through it first and hopefully I don't need any gaskets but I can cut one out if absolutely necessary. Hopefully it runs like a sewing machine with the stock carb and we can go with customizations from there

Crank seal
 

MarkT, I also replaced my crank seal somewhat recently too! And inspected it when it was apart. I will say there's black liquid coming off the exhaust port, do you think that's unburned gas or oil from below?
imgur.com/a/xsMPjCk

There are two crank seals. The one under the ignition is the likely suspect. You can't really "inspect" for a leak. Pressure and vacuum test is the only reliable method. But you also said you have some kind of wrong carb on it so it could be that.

Yep, I've replaced both seals but it was almost 10 years ago but it hasn't really run and I could have done it wrong for all I know. Since it's not that hard, doing that as a precaution couldn't hurt. Thank you for the suggestion, I really appreciate it.

One thing to note, I DID get the smaller more stock sized carb on there and it runs much more predictably. Only thing is it won't really idle but it's dirty and could use a major clean. The wobble is pretty much gone after releasing the throttle!

Just listening to the video again & its so very lean & sort of non-responsive that i wonder if the piston is in back to front.
Windows to the front does similar things to how yours sounds & i've seen it done before. Or Crank seals as Mark said although if the right side i'd expect severe smoke as sucks trans oil.
Bit of a mystery. Drop exhaust & look up the port.