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Makotosun

AT1 Wiring / Bulb Question / Oil Pump / and Cylinder Questions.

  • BanjosandBikes
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Hi - I'm working to return a somewhat Frankenstein 1969 AT-1 to somewhat close to stock.  I picked up the bike on a trade and know little about the history but from taking it apart here's what I've found:
1)  AT1 crank removed and reportedly a 175 crank installed (assuming CT)
2)  New Magneto installed with single wire ignition stator and 3 phase lighting coil.
3)  Ignition coil wired to run like a dirt bike, bypassing key, kill button installed on handlebar.  No wires hooked up to battery from lighting coil.
4)  Some Wires appear to have been cut and terminated from wiring harness, however when charging battery (12v in bike) the headlight, horn, and tail lights work.  No connections available to hook up lighting coil.
5)  Oil pump disconnected (gear removed inside case) and using pre-mix.

Current tasks:
1)  Rewire ignition coil so bike will not start unless key turned on.
2)  Wiring rectifier/ voltage regulator 
3)  Evaluating operation of oil pump, and re-installing gear.

QUESTIONS:
1)  To connect ignition to switch, the wiring diagram in tech library shows connecting it back into the brown wire to switch.  Is that correct?
2)  Wiring diagram shows 12V bulbs, is that correct?
3)  Purchased an Amazon 12V rectifier that is producing 8-9V DC at higher RPM using the yellow and green wire from lighting coil.  Seems I should be able to tie directly into the red wire - Can I run bike without a battery?
4)  Will test oil pump off bike, any challenges to be aware of installing the white plastic gear back on (assuming pump performs OK?
5)  Random question:  Since I have a 175 crank, will the case / exhaust / carb support replacing with 175 cylinder/head/piston?

Thank you!
08 Nov 2022 17:17 #1

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Completely different electrical systems.  Do Not connect brown wire to ignition coil!

Crank is same for 125 and 175.  Difference is crank stub on left side is different for 12v generator/starter or 6v magneto.  Current system you have is 6v magneto.

Tons of info on this site.  Answers to all your questions can be found in previous posts.  If I get time I can try to answer more or there are a lot of experts here.

 
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
08 Nov 2022 21:30 #2

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  • BanjosandBikes
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Mark - thank you. Yes, going back into the brown wire didn't seem right. I'm just trying to figure how to use the key switch to prevent starting when in the off position.
09 Nov 2022 13:35 #3

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I believe the AT had a two wire switch...  red in from battery, brown out to all 12v stuff including ignition coil.

Magneto needs to have little black wire to coil grounded to kill spark.  If you only want a kill switch, you could use stock key switch but it could not be used for anything else... 

Easiest is probably getting a wire harness from a CT and wiring it up like the 6v magneto models.  You'll notice the CT ignition switch has something like 10 wires. 

There are other options like using a relay to kill ignition but bike wouldn't run if battery dead.  Plus relay might not be reliable.  Bad idea, forget I mentioned it. 

If you want to stay with current wiring harness you could replace ignition with a 12v VAPE cdi system which would power all the lights on the bike just fine.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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09 Nov 2022 14:14 #4

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  • BanjosandBikes
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Mark - you're correct, AT1 just has 3 wires to switch (Red, Brown, Blue). I looked on Ebay and see used switches advertised as AT1/CT1 with three wires, which made me think it was possible to wire the ignition into the existing switch, but it just wasn't making sense - however you are correct that the CT1 has more wires into the switch (I think same switch as DT1 as well) which would make it capable of actually killing the ignition with key. Bottom line, I have a kill switch wired up so I can use the bike, just want to plate it on the road and had rather have a bit more security. Will probably upgrade switch if I run across a decent used one at fair price.

Thanks again!
09 Nov 2022 14:36 #5

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