I replaced the battery on my CT1 with the dry type 6 volt, and though the bike starts and runs fine, the lights, horn, and neutral light aren't working.  There is power coming out of the plastic junction box near the ignition switch, but only on one connection.  Does it have something to do with going to a different style battery, or could it be that when I pulled the head to put in a new piston I jarred something loose, or even forgot a ground somewhere?  One other thing: When I touch the ground on the battery to the hot side, there is power, but if I touch the hot side of the battery with the ground on the motorcycle, there isn't any power.
  Any suggestions as to what this might be?

I should note that they were all working before with the old style battery, but it had died.  The bike runs great otherwise, starts second or third kick and idles good, no problems.

"One other thing: When I touch the ground on the battery to the hot side, there is power, but if I touch the hot side of the battery with the ground on the motorcycle, there isn't any power."


Today seems to be vague electrical question day.  From what you are saying it sounds like you don't have a good ground?  But I don't know for sure what you are trying to say.

It also looks like you have done some rewiring and bypassed the fuse and fuse holder?  Are you sure you even have the battery connected to the harness correctly?

Did you charge the battery?
An enduro's normal charging circuit doesn't make enough voltage to charge a gel cell battery. Only stock, original, wet cell batteries.

The wiring has not been disturbed from original.  There is power to the ignition switch, and in the plastic connector that comes out of the ignition switch I have power in one of the six connections, regardless of whether the key is switched on or not, but not in the other 5.  I was told that the battery was ready to go from the factory and it is showing that it is charged.  Perhaps the old style battery has more power for the lights and horn to work?

I've used that battery many times and they work great and even charge great.  

I don't know that I ever got one that came fully charged.  That might be your problem, it might just be dead?

Ok- gonna charge it overnight and see what happens. Hopefully that’s it.  I had to modify the connectors on the bike because they are different on this battery than the old style.

One other thought is that battery is a little taller than original.  I use the "WL" version or put some sort of insulation over the positive terminal so it doesn't short out on seat.

is the main loom earth working where i'm guessing its screwed to the plug coil mount or close by on the frame. Headlight doesn't work off the battery & in NZ where i am neither does the tail light. They're AC from the yellow. But everything on the light brown should work off the battery as in brake light, horn, neutral light if fitted & flasher-indicators-'blinkers' we call em ere lol. Battery needs a good earth where you have it screwed to & in the pic it looks a bit rusty if i'm seeing it right.

DEET,
I was thinking of going this route, but You've got me re-thinking it.
Was looking at the aspect of not having to check electrolyte level,
minimal maintenance...I'm running a totally factory stock 
everything, 6 volt. All good, but sure don't want to ask for any issues
as Dan may be having. Consequences can be costly (headlight
bulb replacement), time, to replace the other bulbs. I know, it happened
to me: a low battery. So, I frequently check the voltage of the 
battery. And if the stock system is not up to the task of charging the newer
style of battery, I don't want to risk it. How many volts do our stock
enduros put out ? Guessing a battery tender wouldn't
be the answer. Good luck Dan, always great advice here.
daily