OK, thank you .....Big help for me

(I didn't understand that item #12 needed to screw off after watching a Youtube video on the new DT forks)

Next question...... what is the most effective way to get the seals out? (I tried using a crescent wrench as seen in the pic with no success)

I just put new fork seals in my two little JTs which have that same chrome collar to hold the seals. I ended up using the flanged slide bushing that comes apart when you unscrew that collar. You flip that bushing over and the smaller diameter rests against the backside of the seal. Then I used a socket that was appropriately sized to drop into the collar and settle against the backside of the flanged bushing and act as a driver. I then held the collar in one hand and hammered the back end of the socket. Little by little the seal worked its way out.

HOWEVER.....I used a spare flange bushing instead of one that I needed for the rebuild. By the time I did this process on all four fork lowers, I did end up chipping the collar on the flange bushing. So you might not want to risk the flange bushing if it's the only one you have. The concept should work if you can find an appropriate diameter driver to drop into the opposite end of the collar and settle against the backside of the seal.

Good Luck. Or maybe wait for someone to give you the correct method.

One of these babies works great. Might have to screw it back on to the lower to hold it.

www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty...eal-puller/48199_0_0

Thanks Midlife...my Auto Zone says "In Stock" will swing by there tonight. Who would have thought of using a seal puller to pull seals? :>)

I own a nearly identical version of that seal extractor and could not get a good bite under the seal, but my JT application is considerably smaller. So maybe you'll have better luck. I could not believe how stuck those seals were inside the collar. Installing the seals was almost as difficult as the removing them. I again used a pair of appropriately sized 1/2" drive sockets which I inserted a threaded rod thru and then used nuts and washers to tighten and draw the seal into the collar nice and square and flush.

Another guy on here made a sort of a slide hammer for removal. Stacked up a couple of thick washers the right size to fit inside the lower slider, ran a threaded rod through the washers and then next the seal, and then something on the end...or wait. I think he then put the loose end in a vise and swung away on the lower slider to bang the seal into the stack of washers. Anyway, he's on here and has a youtube video on it, too.

I took a large flat head screw driver heated the end up and bent 90 degrees and put screw driver in vice and pulled on the bottom fork.

What i'd do without fancy gear it screw that back on so its supported then with a wide screw driver tap hard enough all around on the flat part but as close to the edge as you can safely get to try & collapse it in away from the wall & it'll come out. Alternatively you could invert it on a block of wood & get your screw driver up from underneath & get as near as practical to the edge & tap it out or until it hits your wood then you're well on the way.

I think the adjustable wrench might work if you put the piece in the vise so the seal is facing the vise jaw, that way it can’t just spin which ever way you’re prying. My method is to use a 16 ounce curved claw hammer to get under the seal and some thick cardboard to protect the edge of the tube, one good whack with the palm of your hand and they have always popped right out

Have you tried heat? Heat the outside of the lower fork tube in the area of the seal. Many of these seals have a metal band around the outside, and it can rust/corrode with the lower fork wall. Heating often releases them.
I agree with the protection necessary between whatever tool you are using and the fork itself. You can damage them easily if you are going hog wild after the seal with a metal tool.