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Need Advice on Fork Rebuild Issues - DT1 1969
- Quartermaster35
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Need Advice on Fork Rebuild Issues - DT1 1969 was created by Quartermaster35
I am in the process of rebuilding the front forks and ran into two issues that I need help with:
1. The cylinder will not come out of the fork after removing the 6mm bolt from the bottom. It has a metal clunk when I try to remove it.
2. The 6mm allen bolt just spins and spins and will not release from the inside of the fork.
Help on this would be appreciated.
1973 Yamaha CT3 175
Prior Bikes:
1973 Suzuki TS90
1977 Yamaha IT175
1978 Suzuki 390SP
1980 Yamaha 175 Tri-Moto
1969 Yamaha DT1 250
1981 Yamaha XS650 Special
1982 Suzuki GS550ES
1982 Honda 250R
1984 Honda Nighthawk "S"
2005 Kawasaki KLR650
Prior Bikes:
1973 Suzuki TS90
1977 Yamaha IT175
1978 Suzuki 390SP
1980 Yamaha 175 Tri-Moto
1969 Yamaha DT1 250
1981 Yamaha XS650 Special
1982 Suzuki GS550ES
1982 Honda 250R
1984 Honda Nighthawk "S"
2005 Kawasaki KLR650
27 Dec 2020 11:57
#1
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- Swoop56
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Replied by Swoop56 on topic Need Advice on Fork Rebuild Issues - DT1 1969
It is usually not too difficult to get the Allen Head screws out of the bottom , but needs
help . I usually use an impact driver with a long Allen key , and compress the fork ,
using the spring tension to stop the inner damper rod spinning .
Once those are removed , undo the top cap and remove the spring and spacer .
Lastly the nut ( as Yamaha describes it ) on top of the lower slider unscrews .
I take off the dust cap , and use some slipjaws where the dust cap sits , as to leave any marks
concealed . Once nut is removed everything will separate .
help . I usually use an impact driver with a long Allen key , and compress the fork ,
using the spring tension to stop the inner damper rod spinning .
Once those are removed , undo the top cap and remove the spring and spacer .
Lastly the nut ( as Yamaha describes it ) on top of the lower slider unscrews .
I take off the dust cap , and use some slipjaws where the dust cap sits , as to leave any marks
concealed . Once nut is removed everything will separate .
27 Dec 2020 12:19
#2
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- mdscott
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Replied by mdscott on topic Need Advice on Fork Rebuild Issues - DT1 1969
Sometimes the Allen bolt is stubborn, I usually leave the the whole assembly together with the spring removing the bolt. Try using a electric impact gun while compressing the forks. This works for me.
Thanks Mark
Roseville, Ca.
'03 ST1300
'75 Norton
'73 CB500K
'81 Honda CT110
'87 PW50
'64 McClane Edger
'65 Honda S90
Roseville, Ca.
'03 ST1300
'75 Norton
'73 CB500K
'81 Honda CT110
'87 PW50
'64 McClane Edger
'65 Honda S90
28 Dec 2020 08:19
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- Logan
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Replied by Logan on topic Need Advice on Fork Rebuild Issues - DT1 1969
If you have taken all the oil out remove the top nut on the upper fork and remove the spring and compress the fork, you should be able to see the damper rod, on my DT 250 1979 I managed to use a 16MM oil drain plug that fitted in to the top of the damper rod allowing you to remove the 6mm Allen blot and stop the damper rod from turning
28 Dec 2020 10:26
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- RT325
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Replied by RT325 on topic Need Advice on Fork Rebuild Issues - DT1 1969
If you remove seal holder 12 that also holds the top bush in you might be able to top the fork out against the underside of the damper to hold enough pressure on it to finish removing the allen screw. Not had mine in bits for--40 years lol.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcy...1969/dt1b/front-fork
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcy...1969/dt1b/front-fork
28 Dec 2020 13:26
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- RT325
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Replied by RT325 on topic Need Advice on Fork Rebuild Issues - DT1 1969
& after that's undone a bit of an upward tap-pull, will pull out the top bush & fork tube with damper etc complete. Think i have a factory tool to lock onto the top of the damper via a long 3/8 drive T bar. Tool came with a selection off fittings for different fork dampers.
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- Quartermaster35
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Replied by Quartermaster35 on topic Need Advice on Fork Rebuild Issues - DT1 1969
OK, still need help on getting the upper part of the fork loose from the bottom.
(Got allen screw out, Thank you for the advice)
Shouldn't items 4 & 5 (in the pic) fall out when I turn the cylinder upside down? Which then allows the upper fork to release....... stumped on this one.
(Got allen screw out, Thank you for the advice)
Shouldn't items 4 & 5 (in the pic) fall out when I turn the cylinder upside down? Which then allows the upper fork to release....... stumped on this one.
1973 Yamaha CT3 175
Prior Bikes:
1973 Suzuki TS90
1977 Yamaha IT175
1978 Suzuki 390SP
1980 Yamaha 175 Tri-Moto
1969 Yamaha DT1 250
1981 Yamaha XS650 Special
1982 Suzuki GS550ES
1982 Honda 250R
1984 Honda Nighthawk "S"
2005 Kawasaki KLR650
Prior Bikes:
1973 Suzuki TS90
1977 Yamaha IT175
1978 Suzuki 390SP
1980 Yamaha 175 Tri-Moto
1969 Yamaha DT1 250
1981 Yamaha XS650 Special
1982 Suzuki GS550ES
1982 Honda 250R
1984 Honda Nighthawk "S"
2005 Kawasaki KLR650
30 Dec 2020 14:10
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- RT325
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Replied by RT325 on topic Need Advice on Fork Rebuild Issues - DT1 1969
I see you have the Allen screw out now--so,
Ok then. 4 is held into the bottom of the fork tube--stanchion--by circlip 3. But that has to come out of the bottom of the stanchion. Then the complete damper will come with it. but to get 'that far' you need to pull the stanchion out. So to do that you need to unscrew 12 then pull the stanchion & that will pull out top bush 10 complete with damper inside. 'Then' you probably have two options. One--remove the tapered piece on the bottom of the damper which would normally pull off, then damper should fall out the top but be careful of damper washers & stuff. Or pop that bottom circlip 3 & remove damper complete with 4 from the bottom. Sorry think i'm going in circles a bit but hope you get the idea. also to undo 12 i used to just grab it with emery cloth & big slip joint pliers, but wasn't worried about a few marks but if you're not keen on that idea then i don't know, maybe a couple of good quality hose clamps tightened then trapped in the vice at the clamp screws then turn the fork leg. Good luck--or '&' good management.
Ok then. 4 is held into the bottom of the fork tube--stanchion--by circlip 3. But that has to come out of the bottom of the stanchion. Then the complete damper will come with it. but to get 'that far' you need to pull the stanchion out. So to do that you need to unscrew 12 then pull the stanchion & that will pull out top bush 10 complete with damper inside. 'Then' you probably have two options. One--remove the tapered piece on the bottom of the damper which would normally pull off, then damper should fall out the top but be careful of damper washers & stuff. Or pop that bottom circlip 3 & remove damper complete with 4 from the bottom. Sorry think i'm going in circles a bit but hope you get the idea. also to undo 12 i used to just grab it with emery cloth & big slip joint pliers, but wasn't worried about a few marks but if you're not keen on that idea then i don't know, maybe a couple of good quality hose clamps tightened then trapped in the vice at the clamp screws then turn the fork leg. Good luck--or '&' good management.
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- Jimmy Pascol
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Replied by Jimmy Pascol on topic Need Advice on Fork Rebuild Issues - DT1 1969
Try putting the oil drain screws back in and snug them up to hold the spinning things inside.
30 Dec 2020 15:17
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic Need Advice on Fork Rebuild Issues - DT1 1969
See the threads on the top of the fork lower #1?
Have you unscrewed the "seal holder" from the lower tube?
Have you unscrewed the "seal holder" from the lower tube?
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
30 Dec 2020 16:09
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