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There's no easy way to replace it, in fact it can't be done. Need a new worm gear plus a new arm & seal. Then fit seal to the worm & rivet the new arm on the the worm. Might be a right way & a wrong way to sit the arm on before riveting in relation to where the worm ends up. If ya go that way then observe where the start point of the worm is in relation to the arm. You can only get it right or wrong & no in between as the arm fits on two flats, so no multiple choice's. Personally i'd forget it & just grease it up & carry on. I's not a critically important seal. The good thing is that CT3 has the nylon outer worm that you can turn, then turn harder & it takes the seal out with the arm & worm. Grease it up & grease the outer worm internal then just wind it back in & wind hard at the end for the seal to be pulled right home. also might need to start it on the right spiral. Depends how many spirals it has but i'm guessing 3. I've had a new one hanging on the tool board for about 45 years haha, i'll go look if its still there. I'll post this then see if i should edit it.

www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1973/ct3/clutch
Yeah i meant when winding it back in-- With it starting winding back in on the correct start spiral you'll end up with the arm down & hard home so seal is pushed in & the two retaining screws in the right place on the outside of the case. Then your cable will be ok fitted. Wrong spiral & arm might end up halfway up & right home so cable will have an inch of slack. Good thing is with the nylon outer worm if you start it wrong you can just wind it out then go around one spiral & wind in again.
Man, i can complicate instructions for simple jobs.

Looks like #madmark made two posts on the same subject.

Didn't Mark T just answer this?

Rebuilding 1973 CT 3 175. I was wondering how do you replace the oil seal on the clutch actuator on the worm gear. 
THanksRebuilding 1973 CT 3 175. I was wondering how do you replace the oil seal on the clutch actuator on the worm gear. 
THanks 

Rebuilding a1973 CT3. So how do you replace the small oil seal (10.5x15x3) on the clutch actuator.. it's on the worm gear.
Thanks

A couple more surprises on the 68 DT1, There is non-ISO screws in places on this bike that are not on later model DT1's including my 1970 &71 model. While reconditioning the oil pump out of curiosity, I found out the 4 screws holding the unit together are a different thread pitch then later model pumps. Also the shaft and pully are different on this pump.

The clutch actuator cover cap screws are non-ISO screws as well.  Good thing the original screws were in good condition! Could not use the new screws that came in the kit. 

Wasn't to thrilled with the aftermarket gasket for the oil pump i got either. Another thing is this bike has that plastic preformed oil line not like the later banjo fittings with rubber lines. Not sure how well the new copper seal washers from Yamaha  will work with this plastic line. Wish i could find some fiber gaskets like what came on it. Anyone know a source for fiber seals for the banjo fittings and not the new copper style seal washers please let me know. 









 

Put the worm gear in the case. When it is in the relaxed position, it will be pretty flush with the outside. The actuator part should be parallel with the case at that point. I have a couple of pics, but can't upload them. I can send them to you via a pm if you want.

Definitely need to replace the worm gear actuator.   It is not obvious to me how best to remove it without damaging something else.  My Clymer manual is no help.   Does it screw out?  Does the push lever need to be removed from the inside by prying it out/