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Bartman512,

From an earlier post:

See one of the many "clutch actuator" threads on this site. These will explain both the problem, and permanent cures, if you want them gone forever. You CAN get repops of the whole actuator if you'd prefer, but these use the same plastic actuator, and they will crack, it's just a question of "when." Search Clutch actuator in the subject search with an author of Hammer and you'll find them. The mod was one of DEET's design, and HE deserves ALL the credit. I haven't even so much as done anything to mine since I did the mod back in 2013 or so.

Hope this helps!

Hammer

I think I read that kdi is working on a reproduction clutch actuator for the DT's and RT's. And I right? RickC (Rick Corona) said that in a post maybe two weeks ago. Don't know what Dave's target date for release is, though.

Ok Ive done several searches but cant actually find the actual mod or which one to order. Mine is broken and Im hoping there's a better part that will work for a 72 DT2.

Getting ready to try the mod to the R-5 actuator. Does anyone know if the cover needs to be machined to allow the new actuator to sit at the same depth as the old one, or can I just bore out the hole and let the R-5 part stick out further? It looks like boring just the hole would leave the new part sticking out about 1/4" further.

I'm looking forward to the clutch actuators.

OK OK, EN !!!! ( and good to hear from you ! )
KDI is making new seatpans for some non-badge bikes, clutch actuators, New rubber pieces and more !!

I raced motocross on one of the back when they were new. And, I worked at a shop that sponsored a top District 37 Pro Desert racer, some other riders, and the owner of the shop who all rode them. We did some modifications that really made them a much better bike.
1: They had a tendency to bend the 5th gear shift fork and pop out of 5th gear. For a pro desert racer - that would happen after three or four races because they spent so much time at full throttle in 5th gear. For me, as an MXer, I got about three months out of it riding/racing about two times a week. They would trash the fork and round the dogs on two gears. The remedy is to use a shift drum and the fifth gear shift fork from the previous year model. They are interchangeable. It will last much longer. We never had a problem after making that change.
2: They were way too pipey. Other open class bikes of the day had great low end power. The Yamaha 360 was like a 125 on steroids. The problem was that the barrel porting was already too radical to port it for good low-end, there was no flywheel weight, and the carburetor was too small. The remedy was to use a ported 360 enduro barrel, change the CDI ignition to an enduro ignition(for the heavy flywheel) and coil, and put on a 38 Mikuni. With those mods it was a completely different bike. It had way more power, a broad power band, and lots of low-end.
The enduro barrel doesn't look great because the fins are different and don't match the head. The enduro ignition requires and enduro mag cover. And, it looks better if you also change the back clutch actuator/counter sprocket cover. The barrel, ignition, and side covers bolt right on without modification.
A side benefit of the enduro ignition is that it would give you a charging system for running lights if you had a need for them.
The other oddball thing about them was the engine could run backwards. The CDI would work in either direction. It would typically happen when the bike kicked back when starting, or, if you locked up the back brake and then let of the brake just as you were coming to a stop. The enduro ignition would eliminate that. Or, you could file off one side of the CDI pick-up. I don't remember which side, for sure - i think it was the back.

If by drag you mean sitting in gear & it's trying to pull you along & can't find neutral easily then it's a slight possibility because those rings sit under the fibers & any oil around them 'could' act to pull the plates around. that's really splitting straws though so probably not the problem. If you are in there then take them out anyway.Stiff pull i dunno but what i do & i saw it said on another post--feed the cable as freely as you can & in gentle curves up to the lever. If the actuator is lubed then that's good. They do split the nylon worm which forces thing out tight in the worm outer when pulling the lever so that needs changing if split. Slacken the adjusters & adjust the pushrod screw to bring the arm as far down as possible with a little clearance. Then take up the cable play on the adjusters, Some accessory aftermarket levers have more pull with a different pivot point so keep that in mind. Sorry i'm assuming 250 or 360 but if 175--125 the same applies except for a split actuator. On one of my rat bike fleet i'm running the cable on the outside of the tank in a big curve & is great. Might be a short cable i found & had to do it. Not recommending that but could try it as an experiment.
One more thought in a day of random thoughts. Be sure your clutch hub is free to turn without plates fitted. Many times i've had tight hubs from probably minimal clearance in the first place, then after people have had it apart a couple of times & tightened the center nut with a powerful rattle gun, the washers get slight dents from the spacer they sit against & its enough to tip the balance between free & binding up. Unlikely i know--but!!

Zeph,

First, search for parts for a DT-3, NOT a DT250. That designation stated in 1974, along with a new frame, etc. From 1968 - 1973, they were DT-1/2/3 and RT-1/2/3. That should make it easier for you. Also, you might consider any of the several conversion to other actuators discussed on this site. We've ALL been through it. I made the change, and have NEVER regretted it, and will never have a non-working clutch because of it. Do a search on here for "Clutch actuators."

Here's from an old text:

See one of the many "clutch actuator" threads on this site. These will explain both the problem, and permanent cures, if you want them gone forever. You CAN get repops of the whole actuator if you'd prefer, but these use the same plastic actuator, and they will crack, it's just a question of "when." Search Clutch actuator in the subject search with an author of Hammer and you'll find them. The mod was one of DEET's design, and HE deserves ALL the credit. I haven't even so much as done anything to mine since I did the mod back in 2013 or so.

Hammer

I wouldn't say mine is over hard to pull in. Have good free lubed cable & well lubed worm "actuator". Some levers have a different amount of leverage if using an aftermarket lever, so if it's further from pivot point to where the cable nipple sits it'll be a harder pull with more lift.
regarding the second part of your question, i'm not sure what you mean. If you mean can it start in gear--then yes, providing your clutch frees up good. If you mean it falls into gear while kicking then 'no' that shouldn't happen. Been using my old dungga a bit lately just down to the farm as sits there until the fuel goes stale lol. Man it goes so good. Have a 32mm carb of a 360 on it come to think, for the last 40 years or so.
Edit to add--having another think. One of my 360's has a split actuator nylon worm & that expands & makes it a hard pull as it's being forced to expand more & tightly as it's trying hard to push the rod across. Not only 'that' but you loose half the movement as it won't start moving sideways until about half way up on the lever of the actuator. So you loose the ideal angle of pull for the cable. If there's nothing wrong with yours, then back the cable right off & take up the center adjuster as much as is safe to get the cable arm right back as far as possible. Then take up the slack on the cable. My guess though--is a slit actuator worm. Cheers.

But wait there's more lol. A 4 start steel RD400 or similar actuators are good to adapt in. They have a nylon outer & steel worm. I've done that on one of my 360's & works great. But i made a pigs ear of fitting it. So i'll let them that have done it correctly to put you on the proper path.