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 Mine on this 'mess' that works great with one finger pull looks like the screws aren't vertical like i thought but around a bit. Must've been necessary to get the cable arm way down for the best pull angle.
On my other one i inserted it from the outside so is vertical 'straight up n down' retained by the little cover with screws to get arm out at probably below 90 degrees to pull which is how it would have been on the RD350 it came off. Good actuators those.

Yes not sure if said what i meant properly but have mine so the arm pulls from as far down as practical. Probably only ends up horizontal at full lift.

@RT325
Mine is totally set "in" little below horizontal (maybe 10 degree down). The worm gear has "4 threads" and you can get a closed position every 90°. The problem there is the lenght of your clutch cable. That was the reason, why I bored in two new holes to get the arm completely seated in the gear in this position. If you set the arm seated close to vertical you also need little more power to pull the lever.
Regards
Franjo

No sure if relevant now, but the ideal position to mount it is vertical & if you get too far from there you'll need to start the arm on a different spiral. Arm has to start as far down as possible to be as far back in the actuator as you can get.  Easier said than done no doubt when you need to secure it around from vertical. On my one i did 20 years ago using an RD350 actuator i decided to insert it from the outside. Not sure why now as sits the little cover out about 5mm & the cover retains the actuator which makes it difficult to adjust although don't think i've ever needed to luckily. Works perfect as all those 4 start actuators do. With yours i guess you're limited to where you can position it.

Franjo,

In my thread, I used an actuator from a Yamaha R5 350cc street bike, it works out better, IMHO.  It wasn't my original idea, that belongs to a much more knowledgeable member of this forum than I, but mines been working without problem since 2013 (so far...).  I also didn't need the shims to space it out.

Hammer

Nice! I have yet to get my little exterior cover to fit properly, just need to spend some time grinding to let it sit flush with the new actuator sticking out.

Hi,
thank you Red Tail! Maybe this would work. But I’ve no Tig welder.
I finally fixed it in another way. But it was not simple. Maybe someone is interested to fit this actuator from Mike’s XS650 I show here how I did it without welding the old lever to the new actuator.
Step 1
The free length of the clutch cable (difference between cable housing and cable) has influence how far the “worm gear screw” is out of the “worm gear nut” in closed position. In my case the worm gear was already out for about 2mm when I hung in the cable in longest position of the handlebar adjuster (adjuster totally in).  To get my “screw” seated with totally extended clutch cable I had to rotate the “worm nut” in the cover a few degrees. To have some material left for the new threads I had to make an elongated hole in one side of the “worm nut”.

 
elongated hole

 
"worm gear nut" in new position
Now  the “worm gear screw” was seated in the “nut” after the cable was hung in. But the lever still hit my o-ring-chain.
Step 2
I made me little special tool which fixes the “worm gear nut” in my lathe. So I was able to mill the fixing plate from 5mm down to 3,5mm.
 
"worm gear nut" fixed in tool for lathe

 
"warm gear nut" with plate now 3,5mm instead of 5mm

But the lever still hit the chain very  slightly. I think if you use a normal chain without o-rings it could clear at that point. So I used shims beyond the case screws to space the cover 1,5mm apart from the engine  (you have to look twice to see that).

 
cover shimed out 1,5mm
Other modifications:
cut and bend the lever from the new actuator
minor Dremel modifications to the small adjuster cover
shorten the new adjuster screw 4mm
two 4mm washers under the small adjuster cover screws to clear the adjuster nut under the cover
And now it works!
With kind regards
Franjo

Hey Franjo here is a link to where i posted a half-decent attempt at documenting my swap 

www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/...-conversion?start=10

I think your problem is that you need to cut the arm off of the screw part and attach the stock one onto the new screw. If you dont have TIG capabilities I would take it to a welding shop and have them cut the tack welds off both the stock and new actuator arms to separate them from the screw and then weld the stock arm onto the new screw so it clears the chain. Attached are pictures of the frankensteined part, a shiny screw with the beat up old stock arm.

Hope this helps

RedTail

Yeah Mark,
that's why I ordered the item directly from Mike. Could get it here in Germany for half the price. Mike has only this one on his homepage. The sticker on it says that it comes originally from Taiwan. But naturally it could be that the design was changed.
But I have some ideas to get little more space. There are a few things that have impact on the 'working height' and distance to the chain. Maybe at least I have have to seperate from my beloved o-ring-chain.
I will keep you updated.
Regards
Franjo