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cracked bowl overflow

  • adguy2112
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cracked bowl overflow was created by adguy2112

On a recent teardown of my 79 DT-100 carburetor I learned the overflow tube had a linear split all the way down to the inside bowl surface. This brass line doesn't show up as a separate part on any of the diagrams I've seen. I figure I'll need to break it off and drill the excess material, solder the existing line or find another replacement bowl. Has anyone seen this scenario and what was the best fix? The prior owner ran a piece of fuel line from the outflow to above the carb body which seems like a terrible fix as this doesn't fix potential carb overflow and could fill the engine with fuel. I've seen examples of people soldering brass floats. Perhaps that will work. 
20 Jul 2021 15:31 #1

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Replied by RT325 on topic cracked bowl overflow

Can you force a tight fitting plastic hose all the way down the full length of the tube in the bowl. Might compromise the float though if it touches.
20 Jul 2021 16:43 #2

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Replied by msavitt on topic cracked bowl overflow

Interesting
I found something similar in my DT1E, it was the standpipe for "on" in the petcock had split longitudinally.  It was press fit so I removed, soldered and replaced.  Perhaps you can do same for overflow standpipe in your bowl?
good luck!
21 Jul 2021 10:00 #3

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Replied by adguy2112 on topic cracked bowl overflow

I thought of that. My worry would be seepage at the bottom but certainly worth considering. Appreciate the suggestion. 
21 Jul 2021 22:39 #4

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Replied by adguy2112 on topic cracked bowl overflow

I’ve been thinking this would be the best way to go. Did you use electric solder or plumbing type? I saw a you tube With a lawn mower carb brass float. Seemed like the guy used electric type and I think plumbing type uses much higher heat.. 
21 Jul 2021 22:46 #5

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Replied by MarkT on topic cracked bowl overflow

There are some ideas in this thread:  yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/gene...erflow-cracked#80536

Not too many topics haven't been discussed at least once...  usually a few times

Big difference with plumbing and electrical solder is the type of flux, not temperature. 

Unless you're talking "silver soldering" which is technically brazing. 
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
21 Jul 2021 22:58 #6

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