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Trying to check timing
- Iwride
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Trying to check timing was created by Iwride
I have a DT1c that needs quite a few kicks to get started.
I had it running about 2 months ago after cleaning carb. It smoked a lot initially[long time sitting] but after running about 15 minutes significantly cleared and seemed to have good throttle response on a very short ride.Idled well at about 1400 Rpm on choke and off choke.[enricher] with little change in Rpm. I got it running a second time after kicking multiple times.Much less smoke with premix and oil pump running.It ran well.Only did low Rpm riding- I am trying to get the bike to start easier.I have tried several b8es non resistor spark plugs and they spark but not as robust that I would like [maybe weak hand kicks ?] Tried to start it a couple more times but got tired kicking [Legs not very strong].
Right now I am trying to check out timing. I am using an analog ohm meter set on low ohms with one probe connected to black wire with female connector coming out of wiring harness from the magneto and other wire grounded to engine and or frame..When I turn the magneto counter clockwise[ignition key on] as the the red timing line gets adjacent to the coil at about 4:30 oclock position [at the end of the coil] I get about 5 ohms of movement on volt ohm meter .Then as I continue a little more counter clockwise to about 4:15 oclock position [at the screw head anchoring coil] I get about 2 ohms of movement on meter. A little more counter clock wise with red line at timing tab ,I get slightly more than 1 ohm movement.I no longer feel compression resistance at the screw head or timing tab..
as I go further counter clock wise near points I get an ohms reading jump and as I continue further to about 11pm [capacitor?] get a large jump in ohms.
The two points adjuster slots are almost equally facing each other.
I am not sure what is happening -with the 5ohm movement when the magneto red line is lining up at end of coil [and I feel compression resistance] .This is easily repeatable.
Then I am getting about 2 ohms movement at screw head anchoring coil.
Going slightly more CC.-I also get slightly greater than 1 ohm when at timing tab and hovering over it. [however no longer feel compression resistance].
I am not sure If my points need adjustment-since it did run well when finally started ,but hard to start
I also don't understand the various ohm changes above to determine when the points are opening.
Sorry for the book above but I wanted to give good details to get help.and for others to learn.
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- RT325
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Replied by RT325 on topic Trying to check timing
So far as timing goes, at this case i'd just find the pointer on the coil. Make sure its still sitting square on. Then loosen the points & set them breaking at the moment the notch in the flywheel window aligns with the pointer. Sorry if i'm woffling--someone keep talking to me lol, not concentrating. Ignore me if irrelevant info--all good.
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic Trying to check timing
Black wire connected to stator is unplugged from main harness?
If you still get goofy readings there's something wrong with the points... might be dirty. Should have a clean break from 0 ohms with points closed to ~1 to 2 ohms with points open.
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- RT325
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Replied by RT325 on topic Trying to check timing
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- Iwride
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- Iwride
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Replied by Iwride on topic Trying to check timing
The Black wire connected to stator was not unplugged from main harness.Does that invalid all the findings ? I just used the loose black timing wire with female connector to analog multimeter. Do I just go higher up to main harness and unplug the black wire connector [where to find]?
I did try the method of an un tuned AM radio with antennae near points as I rotated mag in area of points opening but never got any kind of noise,static,poping-didn"t seem to work
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- SKYDANCER46
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Replied by SKYDANCER46 on topic Trying to check timing
see pictures below for the nozzle
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- Iwride
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- RT325
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic Trying to check timing
In either case you should get a solid "0" with points closed (meter pegged) and a solid ohm reading of whatever when points open. Contacts are likely dirty if readings are jumping around. Very common... fine wet/dry sandpaper or a point file, some contact cleaner, and strips of white uncoated business card pulled through the contacts until they come out clean (last step) should fix it.
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