Trying to check timing
I have a DT1c that needs quite a few kicks to get started.
I had it running about 2 months ago after cleaning carb. It smoked a lot  initially[long time sitting] but after running about 15 minutes significantly cleared and seemed to have good throttle response on a very short ride.Idled well at about 1400 Rpm on choke and off choke.[enricher] with little change in Rpm. I got it running a second time after kicking multiple times.Much less smoke with premix and oil pump running.It ran well.Only did low Rpm riding- I am trying to get the bike to start easier.I have tried  several b8es non resistor spark plugs and they spark but not as robust that I would like [maybe weak hand kicks ?] Tried to start it a couple more times but got tired kicking [Legs not very strong].
Right now I am trying to check out timing. I am using an analog ohm meter set on low ohms with one probe connected to black wire with female connector coming out of  wiring  harness from the magneto and other wire grounded to engine and or frame..When I turn the magneto counter clockwise[ignition key on] as the the red timing line gets adjacent to the coil at about 4:30 oclock position [at the end of the coil] I get about 5 ohms of movement on volt ohm meter .Then as I continue a little more  counter clockwise  to about 4:15 oclock position [at the screw head anchoring coil] I get about 2 ohms of movement on meter. A little more counter clock wise with red line at timing tab ,I get slightly more than 1 ohm movement.I no longer feel compression resistance at the screw head or timing tab..
as I go further counter clock wise near points I get an ohms reading jump and as I continue further to about 11pm [capacitor?] get a large jump in ohms.
The two points adjuster slots are almost equally facing each other.
I am not sure what is happening -with the 5ohm movement when the magneto red line is lining up at end of coil [and I feel compression resistance] .This is easily repeatable.
Then I am getting about 2 ohms movement at screw head anchoring coil.
Going slightly more CC.-I also get slightly greater than 1 ohm when at timing tab and hovering over it. [however no longer feel compression resistance].
I am not sure If my points need adjustment-since it did run well when finally started ,but hard to start
I also don't understand the various ohm changes above to determine when the points are opening.
Sorry for the book above but I wanted to give good details to get help.and for others to learn.
 

That's quite a story, but think you're likely looking at a carb issue. Timing --within reason--won't make it hard to start. If points are too wide it'll likely kick back. If too close it'll almost start by hand but sound retarded & idle slower without touching idle screw. But it'll still run. I wonder about the small jets in the carb, like choke drilling down the cavity in the bowl, is a fixed jet prodded by something very small--i pull a strand out of my wire brush. Pilot jat the same as is easily restricted. Take the needle jet right out of the carb. Can push that out with a 5mm long screw although thread is slightly different. Crank seals are possible too of course. On my DT1 the stale fuel residue was right up the center of the needle jet--called emulsion tube--not talking float needle to be clear. Build up in mine caused headaches as didn't spot it first time & only by looking up from the bottom & couldn't see the step at the top so went scratching with a slit pin that sort f fitted & all this blue powder came out. Needle jet is metered in the last 5mm or something less near the top. Can build up on the slide needle too. All a bit of a guess.
So far as timing goes, at this case i'd just find the pointer on the coil. Make sure its still sitting square on. Then loosen the points & set them breaking at the moment the notch in the flywheel window aligns with the pointer. Sorry if i'm woffling--someone keep talking to me lol, not concentrating. Ignore me if irrelevant info--all good.

Have you "zeroed" the ohmmeter before starting?

Black wire connected to stator is unplugged from main harness?

If you still get goofy readings there's something wrong with the points...  might be dirty.  Should have a clean break from 0 ohms with points closed to ~1 to 2 ohms with points open.

i'd better check mine as 'thought' my meter sits somewhere up in the 1ohm area then varies a bit around that from closed to open--i dunno, & likely my meter too.

When I cleaned carb I did not take out emulsion tube that houses the needle jet .I did not know what direction it comes out .The inside of the tube was sprayed well with carb cleaner and looked clear.. For next cleaning what direction does the emulsion tube come out ?

Yes I zeroed the ohm meter before checking.
The Black wire connected to stator was not unplugged from main harness.Does that invalid all the findings ? I just used the loose black timing wire with female connector to analog multimeter. Do I just go higher up to main harness and unplug the black wire connector [where to find]?
I did try the method of an un tuned AM radio with antennae near points as I rotated mag in area of points opening but never got any kind of noise,static,poping-didn"t seem to work

If your talking about the main nozzle then unscrew the setter (has the little rubber o-ring on it) remove the washer then tap the main nozzle out up thru the carb (top) from the bottom. Use the correct size round pin punch or wood dowel, be careful not to damage the threads in the nozzle where the setter screws in. Be sure your float level is spot on and your needle& seat and pilot jet are correct size and new. 

see pictures below for the nozzle

Thanks,now I understand how to remove and clean the tube.

To tap it out & pull it back in i just screw a long screw in a couple of turns until finger tight plus a fraction, even though the thread is slightly different to a common screw--5mm i think without checking. But also has to be pulled in--in line with the pin that sits sideways at the base to locate it so the airway hole is in line at the top.

I disconnect the harness because otherwise you have the ignition coil in the circuit.  Doesn't hurt anything but not sure what the ohm reading would be.

In either case you should get a solid "0" with points closed (meter pegged) and a solid ohm reading of whatever when points open.  Contacts are likely dirty if readings are jumping around.  Very common...  fine wet/dry sandpaper or a point file, some contact cleaner, and strips of white uncoated business card pulled through the contacts until they come out clean (last step) should fix it.