Video is not boring at tall.

3k at idle is hunting between pilot circuit and cut-away circuit. Just of-idle air flow.
Revs bring in cut-way more and jet needle.

Back down to 2600 idle, then up to 2900 tells me cut-away is too lean.

adjusting idle speed down brings it back to primarily pilot circuit, which is close to correct.

Try richer 1/4 turn richer on pilot screw, adjust idle to 1500.

Transition from 100% pilot circuit to 80% and lean cut-away circuit runs "hunting" lean at 2900/3000 rpm.

Not electrical.

cliff
 

Ok…. I couldn’t even test ride the bike just now. It won’t idle and it kicks back hard on occasions. So I assume I didn’t get the timing set properly. I pinned the advance mechanism and set it to 1.8 BTDC using a dial indicator. But I don't have a buzz box. So maybe my method of pinching a piece of paper between the contacts wasn’t good enough. I set it where the strip of paper just started to come loose at 1.8 BTDC.

I will get it all setup with the dial indicator again and let my youngest son oversee my setup. Maybe he will notice something since he is the family mechanic who actually has a college degree to support it. He has been wrenching on farm equipment and diesel trucks ever since he graduated. He got tired of being a mechanic and now owns and maintains his own rig and I am extremely proud of his accomplishments. His biking interests have gone from dirt bikes to Harleys, but I won’t hold that against him.

imgur.com/a/dwvEaVP

 

@AUTOMAN thanks for the carb suggestions. Once I am confident in my ignition timing I will then try your carb tuning suggestions.

Yes, the "paper" method ends up advancing timing...  you want to use the thinnest possible... the first account I remember reading about that method mentioned using thin cigarette rolling paper... basically a tough, thin tissue paper... which was common back in the 40's or 50's when the article was written.

A later instructional suggested cellophane wrap from the outside of the cigarette pack.

I've only used it in an emergency and always set timing retarded... the difference between points "perceptibly" opening visually and "actually" opening is as much as 10 degrees from my playing around with meters and buzz boxes..   not sure where you are depending on paper thickness.

You might try Hammer's method of using an AM radio tuned placed near and tuned to static...  radio speaker will "pop" when points open.

 

Well I’m glad I pulled the flywheel AGAIN because I found that the key was not in the crank and I found it tucked in by one of the coils….. man I’m getting careless as I get older…..
imgur.com/a/vhGjYem
I am concerned that my advance mechanism is not working properly. You will see in this video that I can move it to advanced position and the spring does not pull it back. Is it supposed to pull it back? 

I am about to take another swing at setting the timing and found that I didn’t have to pin the advanced position because that is how it sits right now. It’s advanced. Everything got completely contaminated with oil when my crank seals failed. So I am questioning if the advance mechanism is now gummed up and sticking.


 

On the iggy advance side....
The running engine will jerk that thing with no problem.

If timing was close or OK, key does not matter as long as the flywheel is tight.

Getting more interesting in every post. You are learning as you go without damage so that's good. I guess the flywheel must've been over the key slot & tight enough as sounded OK for timing not like it slipped. You'll get there. I wonder if the key got stuck where it was caused a short to the points terminal or condenser. Whatever even if cam was stuck on advance all the time it should only be 1.8mm btdc. But possibly ended up over 2mm if it kicks back hard while being stuck open & you slightly mis-timed it. Back plate isn't movable so regardless points shouldn't be over 15 thou gap at any point. With cam on advance you'll see the gap early in the window. But on retard you'll see max gap late in the window. But still within a 15 maximum range. I'm overcomplicating it & on my phone so maybe missing stuff. Happy to be corrected by others if I'm steering you wrong. Be careful of that key--you're lucky so far. Damn predictive on fone keeps tricking me lol.

I found DEETS write up on setting timing with an ohm meter. Have been messing with it and see that I am way off with my current setting. It’s funny how you use a dial indicator to precisely determine TDC and the required 1.8 BTDC. And then you use an ohm meter to know exactly when the contacts open. But then you have to use the most primitive method of a screw driver in a wedge/slot to try and get the points correct. And then having it lose its setting simply from tightening the hold down screw. You guys have all done it so often that it probably comes easy for you, but I had to walk away for today and will try again tomorrow.

If there's room to move in the slot & with the piston at 1.8 you could pin it on advance & then loosen the points screw then just let the points touch & tighten the screw, so starting to separate at that point of 1.8. Easy to say but not that easy in practice as it alters while tightening but practice makes perfect. Ohm meter will tell you if you're accurate--point of lift. Dial indicator is only useful if you have a centre plug head.!!.

Interesting. I will try that method tomorrow.
Yes it is a center plug head.
imgur.com/a/yxCUcIF