I just rolled over 14,000 miles today on the '74 360, the last 10,000 under my ownership.  Seems like a lot for one of these, though it's running better than ever with no signs of trouble.

Where y'all at on the odometer?

that's impressive, I hope mine goes that long
what kind of oil you using?

TURBODAN:

I too, would love to learn what oil you're running, and whether that's via the oil injection system, or if you're premixing.

As the owner of a new (to me) DT125B (with only 740 miles on it) that I'll take delivery of this Friday... it will be interesting to read the mileage figures some of you are getting out of your Yamaha Enduro's, especially the 125's.

Wild Child the wife owned an AT3 for over a year. I think I recall it had 2200 miles on it when we purchased it. She rode it about 1000 miles and I think I recall it had about 3300 or so on it when it was sold. (She switched over to the '21 KLX 140L DS I built for her.) We used Yamaha oil in it, but I can't remember the type of oil (Yamaha 2S?), but it was the oil that a long time Yamaha shop owner recommended.

Anyway, at 3300 miles the little engine still sounded great (i.e. no piston slap) as if it was good to go for another 1000+ miles!

Durability and longevity are two of the major factors in my decision to purchase the DT125B.


V-man

I recently had a conversation with a client explaining that a 1970’s YAMAHA RD 350 or 400 would average 12K or 15K miles.
A 1970’s YAMAHA ENDURO would average 3000 or 4500 miles. So after you purchase either machine what bike costs more to put into sound mechanical shape?

Which bike brings more money at a high end auction?

a

About 3600 on my RT2….. can’t seem to shag all the chores and spend more time riding… well, when there isn’t snow!
Sneezles61

For me the factory oil injection system was used the entire time. Believe it or not the oil I have been running in the injection tank was the Super Tech TCW3 stuff you can get by the gallon at walmart. Prior to the DT I ran it in my KE250 that was ported and piped with great results. I think anything you can get these days is far superior to what these bikes were designed for. In the gearbox, Rotella T4 15w40, a surprisingly excellent oil for the purpose.

When I picked the bike up with a little over 4000 miles on the original top end it ran quiet and smooth, negligible piston slap. The rings were carboned up from some crappy oil long ago but compression was still good. Cylinder wear was so minor I put another 80mm top end in it and kept running it. Over the last 10k while working on porting I ran two different cylinders over the duration. The bottom end is original and unopened, with the exception of a new stator side crank seal which it did not need. Crankshaft, main bearings and gearbox are all original.

Most impressively, I can say that this bike went the first 4000 miles with at least one very large air leak in the original airbox, which was a common issue on the 74 DT360. It sucked dust and dirt for decades, I didn't even notice the issue until I had ridden the bike for a while. I pulled the airbox when installing a larger carb and found quite a bit of grit on the clean side and a large amount of light coming through where it shouldn't with the flashlight test. I'm sure that killed quite a few of these, in conjunction with the other issues this model had from the factory. With the kinks ironed out, they are great bikes.

This AT2 I picked up for a brief moment had 23.64k on the clock, 1st overbore. From what I could gather it lived most of it's life as a commuter bike in a rural area where it was originally sold. In the Thread MarkT mentions a high milage (22.8k) DT175 he has too.

www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/...at2-should-i?start=0