Hi all still having lots of fun.... its a dt 1975 175 
I brought a new piston small end bearing rings ect 
Pop it on and nothing....took plug out not wet....took carb of
and brought new jets completely clean ect.... then kick start got 
stuck....didn't try as dont like forcing any thing...so took cover off 
to inspect kick start....but to my luck it wasn't..so thought rings 
Had broke.... took head off and piston all fine.. to my horror I found 
Picture 1. Picture 2 is flywheel im guessing im not sure, I basically  so 
sacred to touch anything bottom end cleaned the best i could 
So conrod move 80% free...I took plug out bottom thinking 
the oil would drain out but didn't... I haven't took out the 
bottom end from bike as i literally just done chain and sprockets.
in Picture one what is the best way to get all the bad oil out??
Im planning in keep cleaning till its clear.... could some one explain 
Picture 2 is there anything vital I would need to explain.
I did 3 years in college with mechanics and was in bmw for 2 
Years as a appertice..Im not one this people who claim 
to be a know it all, im far from it, but I do understand most 
pricinples of mechanics so any advice is most grateful. What 
is the way I can flush oil through Picture 1 and what do I have to 
Do with Picture 2?? If you turn the flywheel i think the conrod moves
freely..  ish.... it will also move when you turn the nut in Picture 
3....thank you all

  Not really sure what your problem is?  Oil?  Engine locked up? 

Im not sure how to get all the old oil and dirty grit out of the bottom end of the engine, I have taken sump bolt out but won't drain all from the crank...

Crank is separate to the gearbox oil unless right side crank seal is leaking.
You could flip the engine over and let it drain.
Are you worried there might be debris in there?
If you grab the flywheel is there any movement in the crank bearing?
The manual tells you how to check for play in the con rod.
Good luck.

There is no "sump bolt"...  You're draining transmission. 

Crankcase on two stroke is separate and sealed.  I see oil, hard to see grit.  If you feel it needs to be rinsed out then rinse it.  Easier to do with engine out of frame probably.

So if you grab the flywheel it won't turn full circle?. When it turns as far as it wants, is the conrod still free to swing back n forth. Might be left crank bearing-might be lots of things--might be coil screws in the flywheel undone. Keep looking & best of luck.

  Im literally going to get roasted alive now.... the bottomcrank looked ok when I rebuilt the top end so I didn't question It i was taught if it aint broke dont fix it, still...so when it didn't kick full I assumed it was kick starter I then say it wasn't so stripped the top end of and I saw bits of rust on the lopes so I put oil in and with like 320 course sand paper sanded down rust so it ran free...I tried to remove all grit as I went but some stayed..should there be oil in the picture...so when I cleaned it should I put any oil in??? 

Okay.  Rust is a killer.  Not so much on crank surfaces but if rod needle bearing or crank ball bearings got rusty at all they will fail very quickly. 

If you want to risk it, then just clean the best you can and yes, oil the rod needle bearings and crank bearings with some two stroke oil...  hole on each side is there to let oil down into ball bearings so put a few cc's in each side while spinning crank.

 

If i was a betting man i'd place money on the left crank bearing if you can't turn it around & around by turning the magneto flywheel. If that's the case then pull the mag & backplate off & flick the seal out & eyeball the bearing. I had one that the bearing cage had broken on & it all got crossed up & wouldn't turn far. Have you still got the clutch turning as i'm rethinking what i just said. Should be able to determine what it is [except if its the crank bearing as can't eyeball it easily].

Hi Tim.
Looking at the very first picture, it looks like there's corrosion on the little end of the conrod.
Also, from sunny Blackpool England, it looks like dirt in the bottom of the crank case.
There's quite heavy corrosion on the webs and orange marks everywhere in the crank aperture and beyond.
I would say that's an indication of inundation of water that's caused that. Total guess as i'm here and not there.
The two stroke oil pump puts oil into the crank case via a feed line going to the cylinder or carb. That's where you get your crank case/ crank and cylinder lubrication. As others have stated , the gearbox runs seperate oil of a different type to the two stroke lube, and is in the transmission part of the engine case . If you have gearbox oil in the crank case, it will have entered via the clutch side crank oil seals. 
 
Here you can see the division in the cases between the crank and gearbox case areas.
 
I said crank seals as there are two on the clutch side.
Oil is in that area and contained by the outer clutch cover case ( The bit with the oil filler at the rear of it ) and provides lubrication to the gearbox, shift shaft and mechanism,
clutch and the primary drive from the crank to 
the clutch flywheel which mounts to the crank. There's a collar that goes over the inner seal ( an o ring ) and then the crank seal
goes in the case, over the rank end
Items 21 and 22 on the image. 
The ignition side is dry.
Hope that's clearer.
Shyted