I have replaced the friction plates and put it back together and it still will not move. no amount of adjustment will make it move in  the slightest no matter what gear you are in. I have a service manual and did notice the existing clutch hub(holds all the plates and pressure plate screws to this part)  was shaped like a dt100 clutch hub. Ordered from ebay a whole clutch assy for a 76  dt175 and it is shaped like the pic in the service manual. the clutch worked fine before the friction plates burnt up other than a little slip at high rpm.like a dummy i did not take a pic of which went first metal plate or friction plate. manual shows dt100 clutch has metal plate first the rubber spacer then the  friction plate etc. on the dt175 it showed friction plate first the spacer then metal plate.  i used the dt100 diagram, i may have put it together wrong. did not use the dt175c clutch hub i bought or any of its parts, any ideas?

 

Friction place should go first.

Assembly order depends mostly on your pressure plate. If plate is "toothed" to lock into center clutch hub then normally stack starts with steel and ends with friction.

Earlier models did not have a toothed pressure plate and stack should end with steel.  But it won't make it slip it you do it backwards. 

76 clutch hub is completely different from 75 as you found out... discs should work but other parts won't. 

It might be best to post pics of everything.  Details...  how many discs.  how thick are they...  how much does pushrod stick out from end of shaft. 

Rubber rings can cause issues if swollen up or they often aren't installed correctly.  I leave them out. 

Smooth vs "toothed" pressure plates...  but again while not optimum to end stack with friction if you have a smooth plate, stack order is not likely to cause slipping. 

 

 

Listen to MarkT, not to me.

Nothing at all wrong with what you said Tom P. 

Friction probably should be first on a 1975, pretty sure it's a "smooth" pressure plate... which would then have steel going on last. 

Yeah partzilla show it wrong & if it "doesn't have" the splined pressure plate [which need to go on in the right orientation or wont compress plates] then with pressure plate as shown in Pzilla--even if you stacked the plates wrong, it would still drive. Even if you put all the fibers in then all the steels it'd still drive along [but don't do that haha]. So something very odd ball is stopping progress. Are the new plates thinner so the stacked height is so much less than old thast the pressure plate is bottoming against the hub.
[hope ya can follow that & hope i'm on the right page].

This is the diagram out of the manual  I used for my 175 B.    

Hope this helps 
Jim

Small point or not even a point--but i see i said the splined pressure plate has to go on in the right orientation or wont go right on. I'm wrong i think with this model--& that was later models, maybe they had 6 springs but whatever there is 3 arrows on that later type by memory to show you where to fit it for splines to line up. With the one shown they always line up.