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Back on the road... briefly!

22 May 2020 08:45 22 May 2020 08:45 by Eazy-X. Reason: spelling
Eazy-X
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Back on the road... briefly! #1
Just about got the jetting right and then the clutch cable went :( Got home with the help of my father-in-law (a sparky)

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Classic B) Anyhoo, it was just the end that pulled off so I got the lead and flux out and put a new nipple on.

Slightly annoying is the bike came with no keys. Ignition barrel was absent entirely (replaced) fuel tank came with its own lockable cap, replacement seat is held down with wing nuts so just the steering lock left.

The original lock is in there (unlocked obviously) with the sliding cover. What's the best approach with this? I don't mind replacing the lock as I've found some guys in German that make a copy that's apparently stronger than the original (sounds like a good ideal!) but how do I get the old one out?

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22 May 2020 11:04
Gr8uncleal
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Back on the road... briefly! #2
If you can provide them with a rough idea of the style of key that was used (folks on here could assist if necessary), then a master locksmith might be able to make you a new key. Obviously you'll need to take the bike to him/her, assuming that they are open at the moment.

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22 May 2020 12:23 22 May 2020 12:51 by FrankC.
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Back on the road... briefly! #3
If it has a pin and cover that pin is hardened steel. If you grind the head off you still have that pin in there. I think the shank is a twist variety. Not sure if left hand or right. If you catch the head with needle nose vice grips with ample time soaking with wd-40 may be you can get it out. However, you may need to thread for a screw. If you have a do it center they may have one way safety screws that can't be backed out or you could thread a normal screw then grind the head down so it cannot be removed by anyone. I had to have a welder completely rebuild the metal internally in mine because in trying to get the hardened pin out the bit walked all over the place and destroyed the metal around the lock. So if you can get the screw to move and retain the head on it- good, but grinding the head off leaves you in a worse position. I recommend a professional machinist and tell them it is a twist bit, that is if it is like my 78 400. Edit- That pin is just hammered in by the factory. It twists as it goes in while cutting the steel. in hindsite prying on the cover plate while catching the head with plyers may help it to back out. Plenty of wd-40. But once the plate is bent you are committed to the task. Good luck on er.

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22 May 2020 18:54
Eazy-X
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Back on the road... briefly! #4
Eeeek! The last thing I had to drill out was a screw on the handlebar switch cluster... those may as well be made of toffee! Doesn't sound like it'll come out cleanly :( I'll look into auto locksmiths. Thanx!
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22 May 2020 19:21
mike8162
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Back on the road... briefly! #5
Not sure what model you have but there should be a number on the lock. If you do a search on ebay for yamaha precut key followed by the number you will probably score. I had to do that with my DT3. That has a key smaller than the ignition. Can't remember if it was the same as the ignition on my '75 125 that I used to own. I don't remember having two keys like the '73.
Cheers

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25 May 2020 18:39
Eazy-X
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Back on the road... briefly! #6
I looked today... ffs, lock's been painted over. I know these numbers are stamped on pretty finely so going at it with sandpaper probably won't work. I suppose a drop of paint stripper, eek!

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