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DT3 Flywheel Reinstall Requirements
- jmagda
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DT3 Flywheel Reinstall Requirements was created by jmagda
If I remove the flywheel (to check something on the magneto that I can't see without removing the flywheel), will I have to recheck TDC and reset timing again? Or can I just reinstall the flywheel?
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- automan
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Replied by automan on topic DT3 Flywheel Reinstall Requirements
Points? Just re-install.
Assure torque is is up there, bang it a few times.
cliff
Assure torque is is up there, bang it a few times.
cliff
18 Jan 2024 10:13
#2
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- jmagda
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Replied by jmagda on topic DT3 Flywheel Reinstall Requirements
Thanks, Cliff.
18 Jan 2024 10:16
#3
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- automan
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Replied by automan on topic DT3 Flywheel Reinstall Requirements
Keep the bangs to a small hammer i.e. screwdriver handle.
Multiple times while torquing.
Let it/them find centers. This is the real locking feature, taper.
c
Multiple times while torquing.
Let it/them find centers. This is the real locking feature, taper.
c
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- jmagda
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Replied by jmagda on topic DT3 Flywheel Reinstall Requirements
Cliff, you are talking about banging the points' lock-down screw?
18 Jan 2024 10:44
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- RT325
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Replied by RT325 on topic DT3 Flywheel Reinstall Requirements
So long as the locating key is in the crank you'll be good to just sit it back on there. If you've not altered the points then nothing should have changed--in a perfect world. Providing the points have gap within spec & assuming it was running ok before. I tighten them holding the flywheel solid with a holding tool. I'll find a pic later. They like to eat the crank key for breakfast if not super tight.
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18 Jan 2024 12:44
#6
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic DT3 Flywheel Reinstall Requirements
Yamaha recommends checking timing every time you remove/replace the flywheel. I usually don't but there is a tiny bit of slop in the key and timing can change a tiny bit.
Personally I never hammer or tap on a flywheel or crank end. Crank is remarkably easy to knock out of true and magnets can be weakened by hammer shock. Tapers need to be clean and dry. I run the engine a few minutes and re-torque. Then after about 30 more minutes of running, I check torque again. (This is the old Husqvarna flywheel installation process which if you didn't follow would often result in a sheared flywheel key.) Probably overkill but I've never had a flywheel come loose and shear the key.
Personally I never hammer or tap on a flywheel or crank end. Crank is remarkably easy to knock out of true and magnets can be weakened by hammer shock. Tapers need to be clean and dry. I run the engine a few minutes and re-torque. Then after about 30 more minutes of running, I check torque again. (This is the old Husqvarna flywheel installation process which if you didn't follow would often result in a sheared flywheel key.) Probably overkill but I've never had a flywheel come loose and shear the key.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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- RT325
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Replied by RT325 on topic DT3 Flywheel Reinstall Requirements
Here's link to an old pic of my 360 tightening with a good solid feel of the socket handle. Did you have the correct puller? to remove it.
photos.app.goo.gl/Cc5neaoxi1pwvg478
photos.app.goo.gl/Cc5neaoxi1pwvg478
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18 Jan 2024 13:17
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- jmagda
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Replied by jmagda on topic DT3 Flywheel Reinstall Requirements
RT325, yep, I have the right puller. Thanks, all, for the suggestions.
19 Jan 2024 05:05
#9
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