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Clutch release lever to helix - how do I do it?
- msavitt
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Clutch release lever to helix - how do I do it? was created by msavitt
bike is 1972 LS2
I bought a new helix and release lever because it was boogered up. How does one attach lever to helix shaft? All I can think of is to peen shaft end over lever in a radially outward manner?advice really appreciated LS2 clutch release pic
I bought a new helix and release lever because it was boogered up. How does one attach lever to helix shaft? All I can think of is to peen shaft end over lever in a radially outward manner?advice really appreciated LS2 clutch release pic
25 Aug 2023 12:11
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- Gr8uncleal
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Replied by Gr8uncleal on topic Clutch release lever to helix - how do I do it?
Yes, I believe so.
On my RD125, I took the easy way out and bought a complete nos cover with the mechanism already fitted!
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On my RD125, I took the easy way out and bought a complete nos cover with the mechanism already fitted!
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25 Aug 2023 12:30
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- RT325
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Replied by RT325 on topic Clutch release lever to helix - how do I do it?
With that type by memory i used to start the process with a center bunch big enough to start it spreading then peen it over.
Seem to remember a ball bearing bronze welded to a stick i might've used to start it off. Think i used that thing to make holes in gaskets.
Just be sure to get the orientation right before peening if you can't turn it full circle to remove from the case.
I just watch the video & pic is that yours? it looks in ok condition except the adjust bolt in the middle looks all inverted or hollowed out.
Just drill the peen over part off to remove the arm & reverse the rest out.
Seem to remember a ball bearing bronze welded to a stick i might've used to start it off. Think i used that thing to make holes in gaskets.
Just be sure to get the orientation right before peening if you can't turn it full circle to remove from the case.
I just watch the video & pic is that yours? it looks in ok condition except the adjust bolt in the middle looks all inverted or hollowed out.
Just drill the peen over part off to remove the arm & reverse the rest out.
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- msavitt
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Replied by msavitt on topic Clutch release lever to helix - how do I do it?
Thx all.
the lever on original was beaten to death by someone so I decided to replace since partzilla had in stock. Ball bearing idea a good one! I ended up using hex bit that’s just a tad bigger and it spread it in 6 places and then I rotated a bit and repeated. Worked pretty good fortunately
the lever on original was beaten to death by someone so I decided to replace since partzilla had in stock. Ball bearing idea a good one! I ended up using hex bit that’s just a tad bigger and it spread it in 6 places and then I rotated a bit and repeated. Worked pretty good fortunately
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27 Aug 2023 08:37
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- RT325
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Replied by RT325 on topic Clutch release lever to helix - how do I do it?
That's a better plan than mine but pay to peen a little as well to be sure or might start to wiggle with use.
27 Aug 2023 21:54
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- Schu
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Replied by Schu on topic Clutch release lever to helix - how do I do it?
I used a ball peen hammer. The lever arm has to be supported such that the impact does not go thru the helix. I posted photos under the mini enduro section but I think they have been purged or archived.
Schu
CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B,
DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50, SCR950
Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B,
DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50, SCR950
Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
28 Aug 2023 03:54
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic Clutch release lever to helix - how do I do it?
Schu, I think the posts were archived due to site size? Not sure but I don't think they are "lost forever".
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I was able to find the below and copy it. Hopefully someday the forum software or hosting issues or whatever it is will be solved.
Now it was time to put the new push screw back together with the black rubber ring and attach it to the pivot arm. Again I used the same screw and some appropriate size washers along with an automotive brake caliper sleeve as a tubing spacer. I used a small washer under the white plastic screw making sure it was small enough to only seat on the metal boss and NOT on the plastic screw. Then I tightened it all up and clamped it in the vice with the jaws only touching the caliper sleeve, staying clear of the plastic screw. I put a steel block under the screw head to withstand the hammer blows. I inserted the steel ball back inside the screw boss and peened the push screw back onto the pivot arm. I had to treat myself to a new ball peen hammer that was small enough to peen the outer edges of the screw boss. Make sure you have the offset arm and the screw spirals in the correct position. I had a good part from my other JT to use as a guide. Taking photos before disassembly would work as well.
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I was able to find the below and copy it. Hopefully someday the forum software or hosting issues or whatever it is will be solved.
Now it was time to put the new push screw back together with the black rubber ring and attach it to the pivot arm. Again I used the same screw and some appropriate size washers along with an automotive brake caliper sleeve as a tubing spacer. I used a small washer under the white plastic screw making sure it was small enough to only seat on the metal boss and NOT on the plastic screw. Then I tightened it all up and clamped it in the vice with the jaws only touching the caliper sleeve, staying clear of the plastic screw. I put a steel block under the screw head to withstand the hammer blows. I inserted the steel ball back inside the screw boss and peened the push screw back onto the pivot arm. I had to treat myself to a new ball peen hammer that was small enough to peen the outer edges of the screw boss. Make sure you have the offset arm and the screw spirals in the correct position. I had a good part from my other JT to use as a guide. Taking photos before disassembly would work as well.
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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
28 Aug 2023 08:13
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- Schu
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Replied by Schu on topic Clutch release lever to helix - how do I do it?
Thanks again Mark!
That is the post I was referring to, but I couldn't open the attachments. They just come up with a 401 error.
That is the post I was referring to, but I couldn't open the attachments. They just come up with a 401 error.
Schu
CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B,
DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50, SCR950
Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B,
DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50, SCR950
Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
28 Aug 2023 13:46
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic Clutch release lever to helix - how do I do it?
Hmm.. let me see it I can copy your pics to Imgur and replace them in this thread.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
28 Aug 2023 15:04
#9
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic Clutch release lever to helix - how do I do it?
One more try... do pictures show up now?
Schu's post:
Now it was time to put the new push screw back together with the black rubber ring and attach it to the pivot arm. Again I used the same screw and some appropriate size washers along with an automotive brake caliper sleeve as a tubing spacer. I used a small washer under the white plastic screw making sure it was small enough to only seat on the metal boss and NOT on the plastic screw. Then I tightened it all up and clamped it in the vice with the jaws only touching the caliper sleeve, staying clear of the plastic screw. I put a steel block under the screw head to withstand the hammer blows. I inserted the steel ball back inside the screw boss and peened the push screw back onto the pivot arm. I had to treat myself to a new ball peen hammer that was small enough to peen the outer edges of the screw boss. Make sure you have the offset arm and the screw spirals in the correct position. I had a good part from my other JT to use as a guide. Taking photos before disassembly would work as well.
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Schu's post:
Now it was time to put the new push screw back together with the black rubber ring and attach it to the pivot arm. Again I used the same screw and some appropriate size washers along with an automotive brake caliper sleeve as a tubing spacer. I used a small washer under the white plastic screw making sure it was small enough to only seat on the metal boss and NOT on the plastic screw. Then I tightened it all up and clamped it in the vice with the jaws only touching the caliper sleeve, staying clear of the plastic screw. I put a steel block under the screw head to withstand the hammer blows. I inserted the steel ball back inside the screw boss and peened the push screw back onto the pivot arm. I had to treat myself to a new ball peen hammer that was small enough to peen the outer edges of the screw boss. Make sure you have the offset arm and the screw spirals in the correct position. I had a good part from my other JT to use as a guide. Taking photos before disassembly would work as well.
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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
The following user(s) Liked this Post: Bent Trigger, Schu, msavitt, Sneezles61
28 Aug 2023 15:12
#10
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