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Makotosun

1970 HTI being a real PITA

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Replied by RT325 on topic 1970 HTI being a real PITA

Just be careful because if you flick the switch to the blown fillament the other bulbs might blow if you have revs on even with the battery soaking up what it can. System is ballanced to all bulbs working. AC Regulator safeguards all that though.
02 Oct 2025 04:21 #11

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  • Kit S.
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Replied by Kit S. on topic 1970 HTI being a real PITA

Adding a regulator to my "get very soon" list.

What a silly system, all this would be much less of a problem if the headlight wasn't unobtanium. I may need to convert this housing to take a replaceable bulb or something at some point.

Thanks for the heads up everyone
02 Oct 2025 04:41 #12

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Replied by MarkT on topic 1970 HTI being a real PITA

Silly system? or a brilliant one?

It's actually quite a feat of engineering that these old permanent magnet alternators and electrical systems balanced the output against the load to keep the voltage within the safe range.  Solid state electronics were in their infancy and expensive.  It wasn't until the mid-70's that a voltage regulator became practical and available for what is even today a quite reliable ignition and electrical system.  
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
The following user(s) Liked this Post: Ht1kid, Sneezles61
02 Oct 2025 07:53 #13

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Replied by Gr8uncleal on topic 1970 HTI being a real PITA

Viewing matters from this side of the "Pond", what (to me at least) was silly, was the US authorities legislating for sealed beam headlights only.
02 Oct 2025 09:46 #14

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Replied by MarkT on topic 1970 HTI being a real PITA

Not only that, but they started with only allowing dual 7" round sealed beams.  Then added the 5 3/4" round "quad" arrangement for cars.  Eventually, standard sized dual and quad rectangular sealed beams were also allowed.  

I think it was well into the 1980's and probably a decade or more after the rest of the world that other designs were allowed here.  

I do have to say there was a good reason for sealed beams...  in a humid and/or corrosive environment, a light with an unsealed reflector has its light output reduced significantly in a very short time.  
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
02 Oct 2025 13:09 #15

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Replied by Kit S. on topic 1970 HTI being a real PITA

Even more wild is that this is a JDM bike bought new in Japan and it still has the sealed beam.

I put about 20mi on it today, my goodness, the wind goes right through everything I am wearing, gonna need to get some proper gear soon (I am currently unemployed with no income, so it's gonna have to wait a few weeks longer). But it ran great! Really loves cruising at 35mph in 5th but it hates hills.

I have a new flasher unit on the way. The left side indicators just come on solid and bright, the right side ones are burned out. Gotta find some 6V lamps for them.

Also, the seat needs new foam, I am just squishing right through it (then again, I weigh more than the bike )

Planning a longer drive tomorrow because I can.
02 Oct 2025 14:49 #16

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Replied by MarkT on topic 1970 HTI being a real PITA

Before you start blowing fuses, be aware that the original Yamaha flasher has 3 prongs, one of which is a ground.  Modern 3 prong flashers use that third output for a "dash light" and will short out if you connect it to the Yamaha ground wire.  

You only need a 2 wire flasher, but if you bought a 3 wire, just tape up the "P" terminal and don't connect it to anything.  
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
02 Oct 2025 14:58 #17

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