Hello - I've read how to take apart and rebuild a loose (worn rubber) clutch basket, but I don't have bandwidth to learn that job.  Anyone know where to get it properly done?
Thanks,
Joe 
1970 CT1B

Never done one & i've been around forever haha so what am i missing!! It's been done though & someone will be along soon i hope. Digressing slightly, they have an anti-rattle super large Oring #15 in the link, & it carefully stretches over the big gear & drops into the V between basket & gear. I thought early ones never had them & i remember adding them to CT3's at work because the clutch would chatter at idle & the Oring damped the chatter out. But i see them listed through all those models now so i don't know. If yours doesn't have one then try it--or add one regardless as does no harm. If yours already has one then that's good but it won't get rid of forward & aft movement as sounds like you must have heaps to eliminate. Link below although not really the cure you want. #15 & i see it's shown as in stock.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1971/ct1c/clutch

Sumo Rubber sell the dampers.
Here's a link that might be useful www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/...shion-repair?start=0

My first question is if whatever "looseness" exists is causing a real issue?

Most I've seen have a bit of rotational slop... I've never come across one yet that is bad enough that it's clanking like the rubbers are completely gone or that causes a some sort of rideability issue.

(I'm sure there may be some hubs out there that are really bad though.)

I've never done one either... mostly because the repair parts have never been readily available here in the US... and also because... other than noticing a little rotational play when I've had the clutch in pieces... I've never noticed that slop in the damping rubbers actually created a problem.

Ok I hear what you guys say. I measure 3/16" rotational movement from one direction to other. Betweeen that and the rear sprocket to hub movement, just seems like alot of noticeable driveline slop, true? Note: haven't driven one of these bikes yet but daily drive a '67 Land Rover - that has ALOT of driveline slop!
Joe
'70 CT1B

I road race my CT1 with AHRMA and my clutch basket grenaded on me at the end of my last race at NJMP - I was racing on a basket that wasn’t rebuilt with the Sumo rubber replacements.  When rubbers are replaced, there is no movement side to side apart from when you apply a good amount of force and it “squeezes” the donut shaped rubber bushings.

I’ve come up with a couple repair methods.  One way you can do it, is grind the heads off the rivet and disassemble, buy a slightly oversized rivet (couldn’t find any OEM size), drill out the hole in the aluminum basket and peen the end of the rivet over the plate in the back.  Alternatively, you could spot weld the end of the rivet once assembled instead of peening, and hope you get lucky.  I didn’t get lucky and my spot weld broke on my second basket.  Luckily I was able to detect what a wobbly basket feels like on the track and I was able to swap it out without issue.

I’m working on a better solve.  Grind the rivet heads off, disassemble, drill and tap holes in the basket to accept m6 screws, and bolt back together with m6 button head screws from the back.  There is room to clear at the back of the basket.  For a weekend rider a little slop is probably ok.  Just depends what you’re going to do with it because in a race setting, it does matter and it will fail.

I have a photo of a disassembled one straight from eBay that had a little play side to side.  It has play because the cushions are starting to disintegrate.  

Can’t get the pic to attach here.  If you see black rubber specs in your oil it’s probably worth replacing.

Hello - Can you email the pic to me?  Do you think 3/16" rotation is time to rebuild?
Thanks,
Joe
joemulqueen at yahoo.

In probably hundreds of thousands of forum posts over decades, this is the first time I've heard of a clutch basket breaking due to worn out rubber.

Anything can happen... especially on a race bike... I had a extremely fast quad I raced way back when that loved to shear off rear sprocket bolts... something unheard of on the TRX250R.

I'm guessing for most of us casual riders the risk of replacing the rivets without the proper parts or tools may be riskier than breaking a basket due to a little slop? And if slop is really bad and/or metal-to-metal, a better used clutch might be the easiest answer?

Last note is that the Yamaha Banshee and Blaster guys run Hinson baskets and other heavy duty clutch parts... the Yamaha 175's and 350's are the granddaddies of those engines and some parts are the same... so it's possible Hinson or some aftermarket company might have a solution for the rivets? And possibly a billet basket that would work?

Well after watching Dale Sweger's new clutch basket video (he has a bunch of good enduro videos), I was excited but scared to proceed.  After calming down with my own game plan, I ground off the rivets' formed sides, popped off the steel plate, and found 3 out of 6 rubbers broken up.  So I'm glad I'm gonna do this.  May upsize the rivets to 1/4" dia if I can't find proper size and length.  Regards, JoeM