Bike starts and runs great
Everything else is a bit flaky because lighting coils output off, specifically at around 2000 rpm:
- green/red stripe output ~17V
- white ~10V
- green and yellow ~2.5V

knowing this and that I need the headlight on at all times to be legal and that i need to also charge the battery, is there a way I can connect things up to make it all work?

ps edit this is a 1971 DT1E

thanks

The green/red and white seem high, but you probably have to measure them with a proper load, like lights on or a good battery charging.  A power source will have an internal resistance that will drop the voltage as a matched load is being powered.  That is why they say to lights can get burned out if others are out or if the battery is not connected.
I would have to look at the wiring diagram to see what the green and yellow power.  Maybe later or someone else will answer.

Generally yellow would be the highest output "i think", so if ya just want to run a simple system with lights on all the time--just wire yellow to your head & tail & T off a single wire regulator to save the bulbs from over voltage & off ya go!!. Ok, i now read charging battery required, but if you also T'd off a wire to the rectifier from the yellow it'll charge the bat from left over voltage & may not need the regulator, but a good idea incase of batt running dry or one bulb fails & takes the rest with it. I'll read latter 'busy' & see what other come back with. My understanding of it--albeit limited--is all other wires that come off the lighting charging coils will be lower output in various amounts of 'low' than the yellow. Later--.

Thank you both
Issue is, yellow and green lame, green/red and white have solid Voltage, albeit high but without a load. I have a regulator in headlight can that will attenuate to 6v, onto this after blowing $40 with last bike. 

so I could be confused but I seek to understand how to use green/red stripe and white to basically feed a stock harness with a stock three position key switch and all stock accessories 

thx 

Either you are measuring wrong or whoever rewired the magneto did it wrong.
A normal stator doesn't look like that.

MSAVITT, you haven't told us a few things that I think are needed to diagnose.  Do you have a good battery in the bike?  Are you on the day or night position on the key switch when the measurements were taken?  Do you have a full complement of working lights on the machine?

For reference, here is the RT1 wiring which is generally the same as the same year DT : yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/wiring-diag...rt1-b-wiring-diagram

I assume your voltage readings were all AC volts.  Were they all referenced to chassis/frame ground?  If the key switch was in the day position, the green wire would be charging the battery through the rectifier.  An AC voltage reading here might not be meaningful.  Whether the battery was charging might be a better indicator.  But I am not sure that the battery actually starts charging at 2000 RPM.

I suppose I should read the electrical charging and voltage conditions for your model before trying to figure this out.

DEETs comment is valid and brings up a good question:  Is your stator stock or has it been messed with?

Happy Friday! (or Saturday depending where you are) JayB

thanks JayB and Deet
yes, stock all around and new battery with two position (off/day/night) switch
it is a 1971 DT1E
I am going to go back and measure in a more systematic manner and will report back after doing so

i was forgetting they have a lighting & a charging coil so i dunno, i'm probably wrong. Was thinking just one coil with lots of wires tapped off at different windings.

  

Here's my lame attempt at scanning from my DT1E manual but looks the same as the 360 in the link--i think. Going cross eyed swapping from one to other.