So things are getting much better with the bike everything light wise was working fine I go to fire it up starts great all of a sudden it has no taillight with the ignition switch turned all the way back in the running/on position but the taillight works great when using the front brake lever and rear brake lever. I pulled the bulb and checked the filament everything looked fine. It was literally working just fine not even 24hrs ago battery is sitting at a solid 6.4v and goes up slightly with the bike running, any idea on what to check next?!?!? 

Taillight filament needs to have engine running to light up on some of the early 1970 US models (and probably all non-US models.)

Brakelight filament runs off battery.

Also, I've had bulbs fail many times and "look" okay.  Gently flick the glass bulb with your fingernail while watching the filaments...  a broken filament will vibrate and you'll see it's broken.

Ok sounds good I'll flick the bulb to check and yeah that's the thing before the bike when i started it and had the bike running with the key in the proper position the light would be on and operate as it was intended to now the brake light just works and not the taillight if the bulb checks out what would you recommend checking next?

Before I went too crazy I'd probably try a new bulb just to make sure.  I'm saying this from experience.

If yours is one of the ones where tail only comes on with engine and not off the battery then check the wire as that's about all it can be.
If tail came on with engine off and key in lights on, then it could be the wire or next thing would be the key switch.  The key has a set of contacts that only turn on the taillight when key is in the lights on position.  Sometimes a wire will come off back of switch or contacts inside switch get dirty.  Either is a pretty easy fix.

 

You nailed it brother sure enough pulled the cover flicked the bulb and saw the one filament vibrate my eyes are getting the best of me because you honestly could not tell by looking at it.

It's not you.  You might not have seen it with a magnifying glass.  
Many years ago I worked in a truck shop and spent many hours troubleshooting lights and replacing thousands of tractor and semi-trailer 1157 bulbs...  I've seen some strange things happen like a filament work with the engine off and quit with the engine running.  Or the best ones were where one of the bulb filament broke and shorted to the other filament...  then you get things like all the marker lights coming on when you hit the brakes or flashing when you use a turn signal.  Somewhere over 30 years ago I picked up that trick of flicking the bulb and it's become a habit to try that first. 
These days the trucks pretty much run LED's so I'm sure they don't have the same crazy bulb problems we saw back then,

MarkT hit the nail on the head, electrical components can do strange things, I use to work on electrical forklifts that had 12,24,36 and 48 DC volt batteries and saw strange things happen, these machines used large capacity fuses, I later taught school on the same machines and one of our favorite tricks were to drill out the rivets and take apart the fuse and rig it so that it appeared ok at first glance and would even test ok using a regular DVM, but when checked with a quality Simpson analog meter  on the resistance scale it would show as a fail, I know MarkT favors the Simpson analog meter as do I when I am testing sensitive equipment. Most people nowadays have never even seen a quality analog meter, and use a regular digital DVM, although there are some very good ones out there such as the high end Flukes.