It started up and ran smooth for about 30 seconds and idled. Things went down hill from there it felt like it was flooding and would not rap up. I put my hand in front of the carb and it blew a fine fuel mist on my hand. It was not pulling in air at the intake. Also where does the idle screw need to be (blue arrow)
 

I have been puttering with this all afternoon and noticed that everytime I drain the float bowl and start it bak up it runs great for about 20 or 30 seconds and then starts to load up. I think the problem lies with the float, it doesn't leak but is sunken in doesn't provide as much lift . Am I full of sh-t?. I have adjusted the tang and that does'nt help

Sorry but thats not the idle screw. The idle screw is on top of the carb I think. The screw with the splined surface is the idle screw. Its made to be able to adjust thru that top rubber boot. The blue arrow is pointing to the air screw I believe.. Although I have been wrong before.

The blue arrow is your air screw 1 3/4 out also your starter jet (choke) looks like it’s adjusted to high that will make it run rich see enclosed pics

Idle mixture screw [blue arrow] draws its air through the center of the screw--weird but!!. Also slide doesn't look to have much if any visible cutaway but might be angle of pic. There should be a circle on the slide to do with syncronising oil pump to carb adjustment which i can't see [pic angle maybe again]. Only thinking along the lines of--is slide back to front. Not even sure it thats possible with slide guide pin locating. But 'if' they have a slot for cable one side & a guide slot the other--then could it be 180 out. I dunno just thinking out loud & that would make it very rich--but not stop as such. Be good if the bowl has a drain screw you could hook a clear hose to & hold it up the side to get the fuel level in the bowl. If its not spilling out the cab mouth then i guess the float is shutting off. Be sure choke is right down--slack cable at adjuster. Idle Speed screw is out the top of course & uses a pull rod thingy.
Talking mixture screw [arrow] if everything is as it should be you can hear the sucking mixture change by altering the screw around 1.5 turns & will [or should] be quite audible as the carb is facing you--if ya get down close facing it. But if something else is causing it to go over rich--choke lifted or float flooding etc then all that will override what the air screw will do.
Another thing that will cause odd running is rotary valve timing. Can't remember if it's keyed [so can't go wrong] but lets not go there just yet--doesn't cause flooding, but affects the suck in the carb so its at the right time.

Here's a pic of the slide with circle i mentioned. & as that circle breaks into going out of sight looking in the spout of the carb as you open the throttle, the raised mark on the oil pump should align--which is up toward 1/3 throttle i'm guessing. In your pic i see the pump mark aligned at idle so from there on its about on full stroke!!. Probably the least of your worries at the mo. Lift slide out & check the other side for mark. Hope i'm not sending you down the wrong track. I'm just thinking back 50 years. [forgotten the question now haha]. 

I don’t see the slide cutaway either as Morley pointed out it’s possible if the locating pin is missing 

After the cutaway comments I opened up the carb and the slide is upside down. I'll flip it over this morning and how it runs. Thanks everybody.
Brian

Flipped the slide and put the carb back on, now the float bowl will not fill. I took the bowl off and turned on the petcock and fuel runs freely through the needle valve and will stop when the float is elevated. Put the bowl back on the carb and the bowl will not fill

Man ya doing well & i shouldn't laugh but that'd be a first for an upsidedown slide. Did you mean upsidedown & not back to front? half turn out?. You've done well so far!!. Now the fuel--did you by chance fit the float upsidedown [seriously]. Or is float catching on something & not dropping. Hope for good news & best of luck.