Hello everyone, first post here!  I have a DT2 that I picked up for a project and I'm attempting to test the stator/magneto to try and remedy a no spark condition.  I'm still learning a lot about the electrical side of things so if my vocab is off or I'm not explaining something correctly please forgive me :-)

Which batch of copper wire would be for the ignition?  I know the other two are for lights and charging.  I was looking at the workshop manual on here but I couldnt figure out which one was which.  I'm assuming the black wire coming from the stator harness is the one I should be testing.  I hooked up my multi meter to the black wire coming from the stator harness and the other grounded on a bare bolt on the frame.  I'm getting a 0.01 and 0.02 ohms reading there but I dont know if i'm doing it correctly or even what the reading should be.  I also made sure the points were in the "open" position when trying that.  Does that reading test the condenser too?

One of the previous owners appear to have spliced into a 2nd black wire coming from the stator harness which was hooked into the negative battery terminal.  Is this correct?  not the splice of course, but the fact that its going up to the battery?  Just seemed weird that it was spliced in way down low on the harness.  You'd think it would have come out at the top with the rest.

If anyone else can offer any pointers on what to test on the stator/points to help me diagnose, please let me know.  I want to confirm that the stator/points are working before I blame the coil and start chasing other avenues.

Thank you!

Have you cleaned the points contacts if they are not perfectly clean you won’t have spark

Disconnect that ground wire to battery and see what you have.  Leave it loose, not connected to anything.

As said above--black from mag shouldn't be grounded unless you want to stop it sparking & stop the motor. If there's a short black coming out the side of the mag loom it comes from the main black & could' run the main black direct to the plug coil to bypass other possible look-switch problems. Fine winding coil at the top is the ignition source coil. resistance should be up higher than what you get, maybe up to 2 ohms, can't remember without looking. Now i'm lost as not sure about condenser mucking up the test--just unearth it for a try, lift it off the plate.

Umm--blimey it's in need of a bit of a clean. Scratch the points & she'll likely run--guarantee it, almost. Good old mags. I just waterblast mine if like that. Then crc-5/56 or wd-40 spray it & be sure everything is contacting at the points as look rusty. But most importantly when you finally have spark', then tighten the flywheel very tight or it'll destroy the crank key.

Hi there, yes I did.  I also checked the plug and boot.  I think the coil might be acting a little weird because I can check that with the multimeter and I get 6.5 ohms on the dot while testing it with the cap off and directly into the spark plug wire just as the manual says.  It also adds on 5 ohms on the dot when testing through the plug cap as the manual states as well.  However, the smaller wire (the one that plugs into the harness) shows much less resistance when testing.  It showing 0.02 ohms but the manual says it should be 0.9.  I don’t know if that’s enough to keep it from sparking though.

Hmm, ok, i wonder if your meter might be telling fibs as i see 0.2 mentioned earlier when testing the source coil too. Or it's just me.

It might just be me but digital meters have given me all kinds of screwy readings.  I prefer old fashioned analog meter like Yamaha intended. 

I'm wondering the same thing.  its driving me nuts not knowing what i'm seeing is defective parts, the meter, or me doing it wrong.