Hi All, starting my first top and lower end rebuild. I've watched numerous videos to get myself familiar with the process and it doesn't seem outside of my abilities. That said, I'm hoping to get some advice on the order of events. I've removed the head, jug and piston. Ordered all the bearings, seals, clips, wrist pin, yamabond 4 etc...everything but the piston and rings. Lining up a local motorcycle machine shop to do the rebore but I'm unsure about a few things...
1) The machine shop offers wiseco pistons but I've heard it's better to buy OEM from Yamaha or maybe enduronut on this site. Should I get the shop to measure out the cylinder then order accordingly for size? buying a bore gauge may be an option but as this is a hobby I'm not sure if it's worth investing in one.
2) I plan to split the case soon. Any advice on where to pickup a puller? I've heard a harmonic balancer puller will work. I'm anxious to get started so looking for a place to buy the correct tool. 

I know for some here these questions may seem basic and once I do this I'm sure it won't be a foreign concept to me as well. Thanks for any advice and hopefully the crank is still usable.

I know you have posted or replied to many topics. That’s awesome and I think when you start a new topic you should always say what bike you’re working on. Will get best advice that way! So people don’t have to search back on other threads to see what you’re working on.

So true. I missed that one this time. It's a 73 CT3. My mistake. 

This style of case splitter is my preference…

dealer.klsupply.com//general-equipment/c...e-splitting-tool.asp

Thanks so much! Can’t figure out how to buy it from that link but I’ll figure it out.  Appreciate the advice 

Splitting is easy with a simple "two bolt" puller.

The harder part is correctly pulling the crank into the bearing(s). You can fab up your own or DEET makes a tool set that comes with adapters for all the Enduros.  Money well spent for most. 
 

Thanks Mark. I’ll reach out to Deet. You seem to know pretty well Piston markings. I have an ART piston with a 514 (small 14) at the front end and what looks like a 973 at the back (the top of the 9 is a bit worn but I do think it’s a 9. Not a big deal if this is inconclusive.  The machine shop is going to measure everything. I just don’t want him pushing me into a wiseco if I can get one from Yamaha still.  

Here's the one I used on my CT3. It includes the crank puller.
My CT3 was my first case splitting and rebuild. It was far more straightforward that I thought it might be.
One thing I do is take a lot of photos as I go, so I can look back and see how and where things fit and are orientated so that I don't have to rely on my memory.
Read the manual and don't force anything.

Amazon Puller

Cheaper versions on ebay.
Ebay Puller
 

27x1 LH thread puller for the mag. Can then dismantle "except for the crank" from the RH side 'if ya wanted' & if crank push pull tool hasn't arrived. RH case slides off the crank with maybe a bit of coaxing if never been off & dowels rust a bit. Rh bearing is a sliding fit held tight by the crank nut. Something to remember is to remove whats under the 3 screw little plastic cover above the sprocket as retains the selector drum over to the left, although RH case would remove without that being done. Just gearchange shaft & spring loaded roller arm that sits on the pins.& not much more to get right in there. Watch for any hidden screws--'all from the left side'--as think there's one low down near the bottom rear engine mount that might have dirt in & be hidden a bit. Hope it's a CT3 as talking that. I'll edit to a partzilla pic if i can. Sorry if it's all under control. I just hopped in without looking. I'll get a pic of my crank pusher & puller tomorrow.