Thanks, I tend to agree.

Watch the torque on the nut with 50 year old threads. I’ve gotten away with a little extra but really examine the threads. Would be a bad hair day for sure if you stripped them. The 68 DT1 I’m working on has the thin nut and short threaded area at end of crank. This was before Yamaha practically doubled the thickness of the nut and threads on the crank. I’ve ordered a new nut to have the best chance of not stripping the crank.

10-4, Pedal.  Good advice!

Hey Pedal, or anyone else, do you know what the torque spce is for my bike?  I just looked through the service manual but didn't see it.  Thanks!

I think it is 50 ft lbs… maybe 55. I’ve seen the spec in various manuals and not always for the exact model but for same size bike should be pretty universal. On my 71 RT1B I went 55-60 after being sure of the condition of the threads. You should have the thick nut and plenty of threads on that bike. Probably see how 50 feels and go from there. Other guys here have chimed in before so see what they say. Good luck.

edit…if the crank taper isn’t good and clean and smooth you may want to use some valve grinding compound and work the flywheel back and forth to “marry” the crank and flywheel for better holding power when it’s torqued up.

Thanks, Pedal.  Very good advice!