That's good to know.  I may need to grab one of those connector remover kits myself.  Thanks again Gr8uncleal.

Sorry, it's a crap photo and the fleabay link is no longer valid, but this is the type of kit that I was referring to.

 

Awesome.....thanks!

I hope this isn't an "obvious answer" question, but on the left-side handlebar light switch housing , of the two slide switches that slide up and down, what does the one on the right control?  I guess I assumed that the one on the left switched between low and high beams (please correct me if this isn't the case), but what does the one on the right do?  Thanks in advance.

Lights on and off.

The RH vertical switch is on/off for your lights, upper position is on.
The LH  vertical switch is Hi/Low upper position is high beam headlight 
 

Thanks folks.  Unfortunately, that was not the answer I was hoping for.  Looking inside the switch earlier today, I sprayed some electrical contact cleaner in there to try to clean things up and the cleaner appears to have "melted" the clear plastic piece of "shielding" that sits just above the brass contacts for that right hand switch.  As I don't really see a need to ever turn the lights off, I'm hoping I can somehow rig it so that contact is being made constantly and they stay on all the time.  Can I assume that this right hand switch only controls headlight and tail light (and not turn signals)?  In other words, the bike will need to be running to "test" it?  Just curious...as I'm doing some carb work and won't be able to start it until that's done.

Correct.  Headlight, gauge illumination lights, and taillight. 

Taillight will come on with key on.  Headlight and gauge lights require engine running.

That switch has three sets of contacts so you'll have to be careful... 

With switch off, the Green/white connects to the white (daytime battery charging)

With switch on, the Green/red connects to the white (nighttime battery charging), the brown connects to the blue/white, and the yellow/white connects to the blue.  So you have three separate circuits on that one on-off slide switch...  it's literally three switches controlled by one slide button.  So you can't just go in there and connect all the wires to all the wires.

 




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Thanks MarkT.  I think just to play it safe, I'm going to order a new switch:

Based on what you wrote, I'm now wondering if I may have another issue as well.  With the key on, I do NOT have a tail light on...only the brake light comes on when the brake lever is pushed.  Both filaments in that bulb are good.  I guess I will also need to check the wiring from the tail light to make sure that is all good as well.
One other question...with just the key on and the engine NOT running, the turn signals light up solid but do NOT "flash."  I'm wondering if this is a problem with the flasher relay or not.  I say this because even with a fully charged battery, my '75 Hodaka Road Toad does the same thing. With the key on, I'll get maybe one flash and then the turn signal will just be "solid", but once I start the bike all the signals flash just as strongly as they should.  With the Yamaha, is this the case as well?  In other words, does that flasher relay need the extra "oomph" from the stator to function properly?  Any good method you know of to test it?  Thanks!

I wasn't clear.  You were talking about if engine needs to be running.  Handlebar light switch on-off controls the taillight and the taillight should go on and off with that switch if the key is on.  Other lights need to have the engine running.

You're probably going to have to figure out the wiring on that new switch.  Not impossible but you should map functions and wire colors.

One thing DEET has pointed out is the stock Yamaha switch never loses contact when switching from hi to lo beam.  As it transitions, both filaments actually get power...  no "dead spot".  This is important (especially with no voltage regulator) because a brief no load situation when switching beams will cause a voltage spike and the bulb to blow.  Not all aftermarket switches are built this way.

On the flasher, the stock unit is very load sensitive.  Wrong bulbs, weak connections, weak battery...  all kinds of things can cause the no flash issue including a bad flasher.  Best thing is to buy a modern 6v TWO wire flasher.  Been discussed here hundreds of times if you search.