thanks for the tips Mark
Seals installed had 2 lips, but only one spring.
Got one of the two Yamaha seals and it has a spring on both lips, so def my "new seals" are suspect.
once i get this thing buttoned up i will pressure and vacuum test it....planning to use my BMW/MB brake bleeder as a pump and my mityvac for vacuum.

I will put my 1980s timing light on it too....is there a speed under which the static marks line up? and how many degrees is full advance and when does it kick in?

Will also go back through carb and will post pics as throughout the process, I am going to make this vintage pig fly!

Yes... I should have been more specific. Two spring-loaded lips. Most seals have a "dust lip" which is not spring loaded and might not seal well against vacuum or pressure.

Technically, crank seals should always be "SW" type.




I have to run... will try to remember to answer other questions later.

On the ignition timing, there should be any real "timing curve". The early CDI systems have components that retard the timing at cranking speeds to prevent kickback... by the time the engine is running the marks should align and stay aligned pretty much from idle to full RPM.. Usually the manuals use 1800-2000 rpm as the recommended speed for using a timing light.

At higher RPM, you might see a slight retard...

On the carb, jets and needle should be marked with the Mikuni "square in the corner of a square" trademark symbol. Some carb kits provide jets and needles stamped with the same number but they are not the same as original. All Mikuni calibrated parts have the trademark stamp... even the tiny pilot jet.







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thank you very much for this info Mark
assuming I find everything in order, would you recommend the 140 main jet, or would you go with the "optional" 190 that others have referenced?

The picture I posted from Mikuni OZ was about the trademark symbol that needs to be on the calibrated parts in the carb... it wasn't a main jet recommendation.

Main jet was a 180 originally... 140 would be way too lean. With the new oxygenated gas, I wouldn't be opposed to running a 190 or bigger main jet... I like to run one size smaller main than what runs cleanly at full throttle. Easy to to do on the carbs with the float bowl main jet... go up a few sizes until it is too rich at full throttle and then lean out one size at a time until it just cleans up at full throttle.

I ran the stock carb and jets on my DT360, if that helps. I may have gone up on size.

And be sure you understand how carb works. Mikuni manual helps. You can change the main jet all day long and it won't fix a rich or lean issue at 1/4 throttle. Main jet has effect at 3/4 to full throttle... not "rpm"... throttle position.

The DT only pings at low throttle, regardless of jetting. You can go richer, I think I went all the way up to a 60 with the stock carb. That is a waste of time. You can richen it until it doesn't want to idle and runs terribly at low revs and it'll still ping over 5000 RPM while cruising.