Hi.

My bike is a CT2.

I'm trying to remove the stator plate in order to continue with complete engine strip down & overhaul.
But I can't get it to budge.

I have removed the two countersunk screws, which is all that is mentioned in the manual I have.

Please can anyone with more knowledge of these than me, confirm that there is nothing else I need to undo?!!

The flywheel was pretty hard to get off, even with a puller, so I don't think any of it has been apart for MANY years.

I suspect that the stator plate is just corroded/stuck on, but it would be good to be 100% sure that I haven't missed any other screws or anything, before I continue with my gentle persuasion of removing it!

I've been squirting it with releasing agent for two days, and tapping it here and there, as leverage is tricky and isn't getting me anywhere.

Heat will be my next tactic!

If anyone has had the same issue I'd be really grateful to hear how they finally succeded! :-)

Getting the screws out is usually the hard part! Nothing else holds it.

Be careful with heat... don't want to damage the coils.

I've used "pull rod" dent pullers I've had for years... I use them for springs and a lot of things... never have used them for their intended use, removing dents. I've never had one really stuck before though.

Something like these:

www.amazon.com/Straight-Bent-Pull-Dent-P...3&keywords=pull+rods

Thanks for the idea.
These look very handy to have around!

I've tried with various bits of L shaped metal, but it's on too tight for me to be able to pull off by hand like that (on my own) at the moment.

I'm in a quandery about heat.
I've posted this question elsewhere and many people are telling me to use heat.
Including boiling water.. which worries me!
Hmmm...

P.S. Thanks for the info re the two screws!

I doubt I'd have budged them without an Impact Driver!
The head of one was already completely mangled, but luckily having sprayed them and let them soak, then using an Impact Driver worked a treat! Though it did take a few whacks to shift each! :-)

Success!!!

I had a sudden inspiration and instead of using heat I used a kind of dry ice aerosol releasing agent called Shock and Unlock.

I squirted it on all the places that seem to be touching.

Then I used the plastic handle of something to tap the plate from clockwise and anticlockwise directions with wooden mallet, to try and encourage it free. It didn't budge at all.

Following that I used a bicycle tyre lever (smaller than a motorbike one) all around the edge of the plate a couple of times, knocking it very gently with the mallet.

Then used the biggest screwdriver I possess, wrapped the end with tape, and on the part of the plate which is most accessible I put the screwdriver under it, and rocked gently. Obviously with the case well padded with a rag where the screwdriver was levering.

Thought I could discern the tiniest bit of noise and movement!

I did all the above again, starting with Shock and Unlock again.

The 2nd time I thought I could feel something slightly moving when I did the tyre lever bit, and when I got to the big screwdriver leverage I could definitely feel that it was beginning to free up!
Carried on a little bit more with that.. and off the plate gently came!

Hurray!!! :-) :-)

I'm convinced that Shock and Unlock was my saviour!

I've used it quite a few times before and it has never let me down!

Congratulations!!! Job well done!



(With it stuck that bad I probably would have broken something by prying too hard against the case. )

Yep, I was very worried about breaking something!!

Very relieved to have got it off with everything intact!!

Phew!! :-)

Hey, well done 'you'. Never had one stuck that bad but there's always a first time!!. I note looking at the pics that the crank seal has all but escaped & probably only the plate stopping 'that' happening. Any further out & you'd be waking home. I didn't realise the plate can stop it totaly getting blown out but that might explain why back in the day where i worked that the right side got fired out in an extreme case. Think even then they had a tab on the right to stop that but they just got out anyway, or on an angle past the retainer tab thingy. Just one more thing, it'll be a lot nicer motor if you were to fit the CT1 heavier flywheel. I still have here a heavy brass ring that we fitted to all the CT2 & CT3 models for when we sold them to farmers. Man without 'that' we had farmers [big foot] breaking damn kick start gears & the internal case where the kick intermediate gear hangs on the shaft. Yamaha followed the trend of light flywheels & instant throttle response but wasn't good [for us down here in nz]. Sorry--just venting off & reminiscing lol. Good luck with the rebuild. Think i'll go run my AT1 125, kick start model not electric. Rough old thing with a 175 top end & not been run for a while like most of my toys--stale fuel etc.
Just to add to that--AT2 & 3's were good with the lighter flywheel as easier to kick over plus didn't have the oomph of the 175 & was quite nice like that. That's talking the kick start model AT2 of course which we had down here. I'll go find my heavy flywheel weight for a laugh.

Here's the brass weight just for a look. Probably makes it heavier than original but made it real nice to start & ride, bit like a TY175 trials motor but with more top end power. Weight it & 1.4 kg or about 3 lb. Our AG175's [farm model] that arrived shortly after had heavy steel flywheels but had tame porting in the cylinder plus an "Always Open" exhaust bleed hole about halfway between the top of the exhaust port & the top of the cylinder That lead on a steep angle down to the exhaust port outlet. Made them easy to kick over but sounded chuffy at idle--well till the got blocked with carbon, then we left them like it as was unnecessary overkill. Identical motor though to all the CT range "72 '& "73. So there ya go--long story about nothing & everything ya wanted to know!! [or not lol].

That is pretty cool....