BTW I am new here as I recently acquired a pretty nice RT3, it is basically all stock, just tiding up a few things to make 100%I own a few bikes and am an avid enduro/racer (KTM) .When I was younger I had a CT3 175, so this 360 is my way of reliving youth, lol.Does anyone know if the ignition switches have 2 positions or one. My 360 has one key position, either on or off.Because laws differ here in Canada Im thinking this is why Im seeing only one key position, Lights on all the time...I just got the bike and battery is dead. taillight ,turn signals and horn not working with bike off, horn is faint sounding.I believe that the  battery needs to be connected to system before starting bike otherwise damage could occur to bulbs etc. SO can i start bike with dead battery????I will of course charge battery to get it working again, I guess the alternator will create enough juice to start with a connected dead battery?Forgive my newsiness but hoping to re understand how these old bikes work, been a long time since I had a 6 volt bike. Thanks for any input

Ensure you have a regulator wired into the headlight (blue wire in US). Here is the service bulletin for pre 76 enduros. www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/service...e-voltage-regulators

VIN number would help ID the exact model you have.

Anything is possible, but this is the first time in many, many years anyone has mentioned a Canadian model of that era might have been wired differently than the US models.  It would be interesting to have more information.  And maybe DEET will chime in as he is quite an expert on wiring differences on these bikes. 

It could also be that someone modified the bike at some point?  (Or maybe the lights don't work because the wrong switch is installed?)

And yes, bad idea to start bike with a bad battery as you're likely to blow bulbs. 

I had a Canadian import 1972 Suzuki GT550J (ie from the same era) and the lights didn't come on until position 2 on the main switch, so probably not a legal thing.

Could you post photos of the switch plus other wiring? You will need to use Imgur or another third party host. This is what I believe your switch should look like.

MAIN SWITCH ASSY. for RT3 1972 1973 USA - order at CMSNL

Regarding starting it with a duff battery, you'd probably be ok if you unplugged all wires, excluding black, from the magneto (no alternator). 

I took a dive into Canadian vs. US laws last night and found several references that the US FMVSS and the Canadian CMVSS have been virtually identical, even today.  This was done so US Market vehicles would be readily legal in Canada.

I am still looking for the date the "always on when running" headlight was mandated in Canada, but I suspect it will be the same as the US law which (from memory) took effect in the US for motorcycles manufactured on or after January 1, 1978. 

 

Just digressing a little. If you wanted to run it, not worrying about anything except ignition, just unplug the mag loom & simply run the plack from the mag straight to the ignition coil under the tank.
Then you'll be safe with out affecting light & blowing them with a bad--or disconnected battery.
Only thing to remember is you'll have no 'easy' way of stopping it.
Just run a wire to short to earth if worried. Might be a branch wire off the black with a female connector with cover about halfway up the mag loom black.
It's just a simple points ac ignition mag, nothing fancy.
I'm in NZ & i know if it were me i'd just want to get it running. Welcome to the forum.
Also, as others have said, it's a good idea to run an AC single wire regulator to save the bulbs when you get to that stage.

thanks for the info, just got my RT3 a short while ago, it is in amazing shape, as I carefully look at things i have determined the ignition switch is not oem, it looks to be replaced, so on or off that's it...
I believe the OEM switches had 2 key positions whereas mine has only only, hey bike runs well so not a huge deal, just keeping my eye out for a yamaha switch so i can one day say everything is original.