I know I ask a lot of you guys, but I’ve got 3 Yamahas that are always giving me issues! I’m the common theme here..
time to maybe turn the mirror?

anyways, my CT3 has ran fine when it’s parked. As soon as I shift to 1st to go, it jumps and dies. Almost how it would if one didn’t have the clutch lever engaged. 

i tightened the cable on the lever to max tightness, still did the same thing. I tried max looseness for shiza and giggles, and that time the bike stayed running so I thought, aha! Progress. Then I noticed my master chain link on the driveway in front of me, and my chain on the ground. 

back to the drawing board to get a new link and pop it back on. 

until then, I figured I’d see if anyone has any tips .

eternally grateful ,
 Johnny

Man, you're having 'all' the fun. If the clutch was ok last ride its probably lightly stuck together. So start it & paddle along & pop into gear & ride on changing to second or third & go off & on the throttle or find some rough ground to power over. That's all while holding the lever back to the bar & it'll come free. But first--your chain lol--its on the drive.

I'd say you're extremely lucky! Not unlucky at all.

I've seen the extreme damage that can happen when the chain comes apart while riding... very lucky.

My first question is if this bike has been ridden at all recently? Stuck clutch is pretty common on a bike that has been sitting a long time. Try tying the lever to the handlebar overnight and if that doesn't work, PeteRT1 has gone in through the trans oil fill hole and gently separated the plates with a long skinny screwdriver.

Checking the adjustment per the manual can't hurt either... back the cable all the way off and adjust the freeplay at the case adjuster per manual, then adjust cable at lever. A nickel thickness of free play at the lever is about right... but only after case adjustment is made.

Soooo I’ve never ridden it . Just had it started last fall when I “finished” er up . I tried to go for the inaugural ride today, and that’s where my aforementioned woes took place. 

it was an engine bought on fleabay, and it runs like a top. Starts first kick. I would imagine it’s the clutch plates, so I’ve tied the lever to the hand grip for the night. I’ll post updates tomorrow! 

Thanks guys 

Now that's a good point i'd not thought of. Chain coming off can wipe of [smash off] the end of the selector drum, but mainly if it bunches in there with nowhere to go under power. In your case i'd say ya ok if the chain ended up on the driveway.
Here's a link to where it can get broken above & in front of the sprocket. Snaps the end clean off the selector drum then there's nothing to locate it over to the left side. Personaly i think you'll be ok & lucky.
#17 & what it covers on the drum extension.www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcy...3/ct3/shift-cam-fork

I peered in from the back , drum looks good!

hard to tell if the clutch plates are unstuck after having the lever engaged overnight. I guess I’ll know once I get the chain back on and try to move.

i adjusted the clutch adjuster screw as per the manual, the clutch itself feels better when I engage the lever… 

You can also try pulling in the clutch (or tie it off), then put it in gear and rock it to see if the clutch breaks loose, helped on one of my bikes...

I get pretty brutal & go rough riding with clutch held back. Works for me. If ya going to try seperating through the oil filler, just be 'very very' careful as fiber ears on fiber plates will break of easy i'm guessing but never tried it.

The paddle & go method that RT325 described works every time for me.  And when I say everytime, I mean I have to do that almost everytime I ride one of my old bikes because they often sit for several weeks between rides.

Had a customer with a Honda CB125 Who had a block of wood on a string he used to put it under the clutch arm over night so it was ready to go in the morning. Honda's were bad for rusting the steel plates with short town running & condensation forming in the oil [4 stroke & same oil for Trans & engine]. Needed frequent oil changes around town or clutch would stick in the morning when dropped into gear. Little pushrod Honda 50's i had more than one that came in "couldn't change gear" & the selector drum [wrap around selector like first model DT1] & had rusted to the drum. Luckily could just force the drum external bolt under a bung & free it up then oil change & good to go. Motors lasted forever so long as they had oil. Didn't even have an oil pump, just a conrod dipper & scroll on the crancase camshaft to send it up to the rocker arms & stuff.
What was the subject again--what planet am i on lol.