Hey all,

My first post here as I’m the new owner of this 175. This is also the first time I’ve tried my hand at my own repairs, so please bear with me we’ve got a first timer over here.

When purchased it ran but was having clutch issues. Drained the oil, took off the case and found that the bolt holding the shift roller arm fell off leaving them rattling around throughout the case. No real damage from what I can see. So replace the arm and get back to business, easy enough. After doing so, the shifter arm was still not grabbing 4th or 5th gear. I took off the other side casing and looked to see if there was something going on on the other side of the shift drum. I took out the bolt on the top of the case (#25 on the diagram www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcy...3/ct3/shift-cam-fork ) and moved the drum around a little bit and now I can’t get the gears to run past 2nd gear.

I can see the bolt held down a ball. Did I throw something off internally causing a bigger issue? I was hoping not not have to pull the entire case apart but I’m afraid I might have to now. Any ideas what I did?

Here’s a photo before it was in pieces.

Well the ball won't fall inside, just snug the bolt back down.
You need to roll the rear wheel with chain so trans shaft turns while selecting gears.

Behind the "horse shoe" on end of shift drum it's missing a shim. #15 on your zilla link.
Could be your 5th gear select issue?

Expanding the pic i can see the washer behind the C clip thing on the drum end so good to go but don't forget to put that cover on. Was common for the end of the drum to get broken off when it throws a chain & bunches up in there. Early ones i think had an alloy cover there & latter ones became plastic but makes no difference if it bunches a chain in there as nothing's going to stop it. I'm talking mainly when we sold them as farm bike [& then lack of maintenance--then chain off]. Bung you've unscrewed is just your neutral finder with a heavy spring & 5/16 [8mm] ball. Holds it in the halfway point between first & second but wouldn't affect gear changing once you're rolling. Just reading your story again, nothing on the left side shown will be affecting your problem of 4th/5th selection. Those gear are both controlled by a double dogged sliding gear [without looking at a pic] on the main shaft which the clutch is sitting on. Only mentioning that because you had clutch issue but probably nothing to do with the gear problem.

Thanks for the info. I was able to get through all gears while the rear wheel was spinning, so that's solved.

New issues

The clutch won't engage neutral when I pull it in. Before I sealed up the clutch basket I made sure the lever pushed the clutch basket rod out (part # 11 www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-ct3-1973-usa_model8...09.html#.XrilRhNKhAY). There is a little play with the basket but from what I can tell is sitting well on #16 & #17. The only guess I have is that it's not pushing out far enough when the clutch is in but I don't have a spacing reference. I had previously pulled the basket apart and used a wire brush to get rid of any rust or residue on the plates. I can see the basket pushing out slightly when I pull the clutch in, but it seems to not want to return.

Also, for personal satisfaction (and because the bike ran before I pulled the clutch out) I wanted to get the bike back together and turn the engine over to feel less defeated. The kickstarted fell off at some point when I was in the case, but I was able to get it back to what seems to be the correct placements. I can feel compression and the first kick sounded promising. The second kick sounded less and the kicker didn't return to the 12 o'clock position after I kicked it, it actually stayed at 6. A couple more times and it sounded more normal but still no return. On the final kick it seemed to go into gear and jolted forward a little.

I tried to run and pop it into 2nd from neutral and still wasn't able to make it happen. So this week I'll drain it and reexamine the clutch basket.

I will try to get a video uploaded to youtube so you can see/hear what's happening. I keep trying to upload here and it's not working out.

If the clutch isn't releasing [if i read it right] then its quite possible the clutch hub is locked up fro m lack of end clearance where it faces up the the basket center. Wasn't uncommon for thing like that if its been off & on a few times & thing compress a bit or washers behind get slightly grooved & clearance is gone. Just remove the plates & see if the center revolves. If not them remove that--or first just back the nut of half a turn & note any difference--then a turn off etc. Then if that defines it then 'off' with center & go looking at washers. Had cases at work where that happened & simply wiped the back of the clutch basket [where the kickstart gear is] across the grinder a few times & all good for clearance. That's damn rough i know--but!!. Tried getting the little gear off the bush extension & taking a few wipes off the two gear dogs that engage into the basket & did work but seem to recall the gear not liking coming off nice [or going back on good]. Anyway--Essay again & might be quite wrong with diagnosis. but wait there's more--lol. You mentioned the kick lever fell off. Are you assembling it still in the outer case?. The only way is shaft in with tension clip engaged in its slot [makes kick gear move out to work] plus spring has to be pulled around to its spot & stay there while case is fitted up. Good luck & sorry to keep editing--old computer & even older operator.

I bought my bike a few months ago and it came with clutch problems and the engine was seized. I am waiting on parts to arrive before I can start it for the first time. I just put in a new clutch pack and new push rod.at first I thought that those were the cause of my bike not shifting or getting stuck in neutral on the bench but after installing the clutch pack and push rod there was still problems. I took a look at the shifting star and the shift shaft assembly next to the clutch. I would notice the peace of metal that would hook onto the shift star wouldn’t engage on the shift star. After looking ant photos the price looks fine annd I’m damaged. does  anyone know a way I could fix my problem preferably without having to tear inn to the transmission?

sorry for bad formatting I am on iPhone.

Welcome from NZ down under--any further down & we'd fall off lol.
Might be a good idea to start a fresh page. But that said--all gears should hook through as clw arm should reach the next pin waiting. If ya trying it on the bench you'll need to twiddle one shaft or other [clutch or sprocket shaft] as you'll never get through 5 gears without doing that as them damn dog things have to line up. On the left it that angled 17hex bolt which has a spring inside & a big ball bearing. That just finds its place in the drum for neutral which is a half movement of the pins when in neutral. The roller arm needs a good spring although its a fairly light gauge one but pulls the roller between pins to hold it in gear.
Sorry getting interupted here--till later. Pics would be great please.

Yes, shafts need to spin to shift on the bench. And even then it can be hard to get to shift on bench.