Hi guys replaced the crank pin and connecting rod / bearings on my 71 at1 with the CT top end and crank I found the info on the run out (0.02mm) and connecting rod play axial play (0.4-0.5mm) but never took a measurement of the assembled width of the halves and I want to make sure it's correct or do I just go based of axial play on the con rod. Also looking at the diagram it appears there is shims on the out side of the crank aswell that seem to be discontinued and missing from my engine lol from what I can find seems like the are 0.30mm and 0.40mm if these measurements seem correct I should be able to make these out of shim stock

Crank width will be 56mm, they all were from AT1 through to CT3 by memory.
They allow you a whisker each way so you can get the conrod side clearance good.
The right side shim is partly to get the conrod near to central.
The left side shim if you have one is only a passenger but i guess if the left main moved in the housing the shim stops the bearing outer ring touching the flywheel face 'unless the flywheels are recessed slightly' or has a slight step for the bearing to sit up to--or both.
I've seen a poorly built crank with the pin through too far & the bearing outer has been lightly touching the pin although didn't do any damage luckily.
My AT3 workshop sheet say crank width 56mm with +.05mm to -.10mm [two to four thou]
Shim on the crank right side 'if i use my AT1 parts book' says part number 136-11561-00-03 with [04] [05] [06] [07 [08] thickness options.
In the other column says ID-OD 20x30x0.3 up to 0.8mm
Left side says 132-11561-00 then 25x35x0.3mm as you're only option.
Conrod side clearance is 0.4 to 0.5mm. 20 thou, that sounds a lot--but!!
Conrod axial play [conrod rock] small end in brackets is 0.8 to 1.0mm] then say allowable 2mm--sounds a lot!!
I'd think on a new pin & bearing you'd have next to nothing rocking [axial play].
Hope that's not too confusing. Confused 'me' lol.
Sorry--forgot welcome from NZ downunder.
ps, sounds like you did the crank rebuild yourself.
I miss having the good gear at work but get the job done with my own methods the best i can.
How do you true them up?, i just use a center in the right side in the lathe & a drill chuck in the tail stock that opens up enough to get up the taper just before the keyway. Otherwise you can guarantee the mag thread has been belted by someone & bent after 50 years so an unreliable center.
Then just a dial gauge close to the wheels, then a BIG copper hammer haha.
Knife edged rollers in a stand would be good to have.
But wait there's more. My "70 AT1 now sprts a TY175 cylinder with head from an AG175 the farm version of a CT3 but essentialy the same head.
28mm chinese mikuni copy which was semi finished to 25mm on the engine side so left it like that.
Goes like a rocket. i 'think' i had to make a base plate due to piston pin difference in height from piston port to reed valve motors but might be wrong--i'll look next time in the shed.
Mine is as rough as a bears bum & had it since about "73 or a bit later. Just a trade-in at work which we sold new to a local farmer.
 

Very cool thanks for the info that was exactly what I was looking for as far as the run out went I had just used v blocks and a dial indicator and was able to achieve about 0.02mm but I'm going to make a stand with roller bearings based of one I seen forsale on the internet