Can't help you with the wiring, sorry.  If you don't get the answers here, you could start another thread with those particular questions.

Yes, new thread for wiring would likely get more/quicker response(s).

Here's how my RT2 is wired:-

1) Red male from loom goes to red female on battery.
2) Fuse holder with male each end links the two red females from the loom.
3) Brown/white is one of the wires for the flasher relay, the other being a solid brown and this should be alongside the brown/white.
4) Yes, the single black wire exiting the generator loom about half way up is for testing the points/timing and should not be connected to earth.
5) The short black wire under the battery box, sharing the same mount as the flasher relay, plugs into the main loom.
6) The battery negative terminal comes with a ring connector and I have this mounted to the battery box immediately alongside it - bolt, negative lead ring connector, flat washer (might be a special), rubber mount through the battery box, bolt screws to frame.
7) White wire from generator is "spare".

Hope that this helps.
 

I wouldn't scuff the paint either, if you want the real patina. 2 pack clear coat will stick and cover almost anything, I find it really h/d.
I'd personally just give the tank a good wipe with a generic panel cleaner and invest in a middle of the road spray gun, plenty to choose from on flea bay. Clear coat is nasty stuff so wear a full respirator.
It's the final polishing that will take some skill, you will need to wet and dry with 1400 grit, then finish with 2000. Finally use a machine polisher with some paste, like Farecla G3 to get a mirror finish.

wiring tips ncredibly helpful, so thank you very much!
I was confused because I assumed that flasher mounts near coil like my dt360, which is not the case with DT1E

Back to the gas tank for a moment;

I'd like to make a suggestion of an option, an alternative to clear coating, based upon the truism that "The bike is only Original once". 

The idea is to maintain the patina by not molesting or covering it in any way.  Just clean it and wax it.  Maybe polish it lightly with a very fine compound like 3M's "Finesse It". 
Or not at all, just a good paste wax.  This will preserve the patina and the value of the bike. 

I went through this agonizing thought process a few years ago with an RD350 I partially restored.   It had a really sweet RD250 tank (original paint) which had some gas stains.   I finally decided to just leave it alone.  Glad I did.   

 

 

Dude and Tim - thx

i think I am going to clean and wax and enjoy for a bit and if not happy then move onto the 2 part toxic stuff which Amazon just delivered. Interestingly enough the ziplock back that partzilla ships washers in warns that washers cause cancer in CA but this deadly stuff not!

I am excited about this bike. New std ring gap in spec in honed cylinder, I replaced all seals including crank with proper kind, rebuilt card, magneto sparking, every bit cleaned painted, brakes, bearings, a proper money pit!

Dude and Tim - thx

i think I am going to clean and wax and enjoy for a bit and if not happy then move onto the 2 part toxic stuff which Amazon just delivered. Interestingly enough the ziplock back that partzilla ships washers in warns that washers cause cancer in CA but this deadly stuff not!

I am excited about this bike. New std ring gap in spec in honed cylinder, I replaced all seals including crank with proper kind, rebuilt card, magneto sparking, every bit cleaned painted, brakes, bearings, a proper money pit!


  

once I get a bunch of odds and ends from eBay and partzilla I can finish this up and go for a ride!

I really appreciate all the help and advice. 

thinking about a Honda cb350F next, thoughts?
 

Just a tip...  use old fashioned wax.  Right now with it weathered the clear would bite pretty good.

Most modern "waxes" contain silicones and other slippery stuff that can make it very hard to paint over.  After silicone is applied fisheyes and poor paint adhesion are the rule rather than the exception.

Yes,  this is why I recommended such a thorough cleaning, should you decide to paint clear.  There are probably remnants of all sorts of chemicals on that tank as it sits. Back in the "old days", I would add a few drops of Fish Eye Remover to my sprayer can even if I scrubbed the panel with a prep, cuz one or two would often magically appear in the paint, anyways. 

Perhaps a very thorough cleaning without the abrasion is the way to go?

what's the best cleaning agent that won't take off remaining paint but gets rid of undesirable stuff?

There isn't a right/wrong answer to what is best.  I suggest that you give consideration to all the opinions expressed.  There may be a bit of risk, as has been stated, with either way you go.  I agree with the others that the SprayMax will likely stick well.  After all, folks cover decals with it, and the decals are not scuffed.

As for the cleaning agent, I've made suggestions previously. in this thread.
Hope it goes well !