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Thanks for the replys. I have backed the screw out as far as it will go and wiggled as screwing adjuster screw back in but still have not gotten the actuator out yet. Thanks for all the help, will try again tomorrow.

The offset pin on the adjuster that msavitt mentioned rides in this grove on the clutch actuator. If the adjuster is not backed out far enough the actuator will hang up on the adjuster pin.

Monel12'

See one of the many "clutch actuator" threads on this site. These will explain both the problem, and permanent cures, if you want them gone forever. You CAN get repops of the whole actuator if you'd prefer, but these use the same plastic actuator, and they will crack, it's just a question of "when." Search Clutch actuator in the subject search with an author of Hammer and you'll find them. The mod was one of DEET's design, and HE deserves ALL the credit. I haven't even so much as done anything to mine since I did the mod back on 2013 or so.

Hammer

Olly, since you say nothing was disturbed on the clutch 'side' (RHS) of the engine when you had the clutch cover off, your problem is probably on the LHS and manifested itself when you changed the clutch cable. I suspect the cable change has disturbed the way the spring loaded clutch actuator arm interacts with the clutch push-rod that passes through the hollow clutch shaft. The good news is that it's fully adjustable for your new cable. Remove the LHS front drive sprocket cover and give the area a good clean from any chain lube, muck etc. You should see a hexagonal bolt head (about 14mm) and within this head is a threaded pawl which can be adjusted slightly (to the left or right) using a crosshead screwdriver. You only need to turn it by a few degrees either way to have the full limit of adjustment so go easy and experiment yourself. When you make an adjustment you are actually raising or lowering the tapered clutch actuator mechanism that pushes on the clutch rod, which in turn pushes a ball bearing and then the clutch mushroom etc. Good luck with it all.
As far as the piston goes the obvious culprit as a previous person said could be the wrong piston. To require a second head gasket which is after all quite 'chunky' and still you think there's touching suggests something radically wrong. Do you know if the barrel top mating face was 'skimmed' when you had the rebore done? Also I don't think it would explain the measure of intolerance you're experiencing but you did hopefully replace the barrel lower gasket, accepting this is fairly thin card material? Finally, and it's a long shot but is the replacement piston a NOS design that perhaps uses an old fashioned piston ring configuration where the top ring actually sits right on the top lip of the piston? Don't quote me but I think they called it the Dykes configuration and it used the engines combustion chamber pressure to seal the ring against the bore. Anyway you DON'T want to be using this type anymore, since modern ring material, design and engineering tolerances have superseded this configuration. Hope this helps and good luck with it all. I'll follow the thread to see how it goes. Andy.

While cleaning the engine case we noticed some damage on the flywheel side next to the clutch actuator. It doesn't seem to affect anything, bolt still has plenty of thread. Is it worth taking a a machine shop and see if they can repair it? What do you guys think!

Mauser sums it up, it's a press fit and the shaft has ribs or splines depending on the terminology you prefer. I know because Marble Motors briefly re-popped them in too soft of a plastic, I bought one and ended up epoxying mine on to the shaft for that bike because as shipped it spun on the shaft.

Thanks!!!