Advanced Search

Talking pushrod & ball bearing. The only ball in your motor is a 5/16 one that goes in with the mushroom the other end so won't come out if you pull the rod out as shaft hole steps down to 1/4 for the rod from way over the other side. Should though be a 1/4 ball in the actuator sort of lightly riveted in to stop it falling out when on the bench.. Position of the outer nylon bit i guess is pretty critical to a point, so you get the arm pulling from way down rather than up past halfway & loosing ground. Love your work though--compared to mine lol--. Think someone mentioned the arm angle earlier but believe they meant original has a dogleg bend to line up with the cable hole. & miss the sprocket but no doubt you're onto all that. On one of mine, not the current one i made but one using an original cober i fitted it through from the outside & held in by the little cover, screws doing two jobs. Not ideal as little cover sits out a few mm but been like it for 30+ years on my race bike. Not sure why i did it that way but might've thought the outer nylon steel cage bit needed support by the cover to stop it trying to expand. Anyway, love ya work so far & hope she goes well & soon.

Can you post a picture of the sprocket cover off of the bike with the actuator installed and the cable hooked up? Looks like the actuator arm has no offset and will not line up with the hole that the cable goes through.

Here's a pic of mine, ugly as it is. Had nothing to start with but found some heavy alloy. I'll tidy it oneday lol. Now where's mums good alloy cooking pot i need for a mag cover!!. My actuator i thing is RD350 but same as yours with the steel encased nylon outer & 4 start actuator. New oiled cable made from a chinese scooter rear brake by memory. Can pull it in with one finger, perfect. Bikes a conglomeration of bits so here it is for a laught but goes like stink, about 280cc.Here's a pic of mine, ugly as it is. Had nothing to start with but found some heavy alloy. I'll tidy it oneday lol. Now where's mums good alloy cooking pot i need for a mag cover!!. My actuator i thing is RD350 but same as yours with the steel encased nylon outer & 4 start actuator. New oiled cable made from a chinese scooter rear brake by memory. Can pull it in with one finger, perfect. Bikes a conglomeration of bits so here it is for a laught but goes like stink, about 280cc.

Can you post a picture of what you installed?

I've experimented with some of the XS650 actuators.

Also if item # 13 in the parts listing is missing you will not be able to adjust the actuator or cable. This little ball bearing can fall out if the clutch rod is removed and the bike is leaning on the kickstand.

Hello Everyone. Firstly, any advice here is greatly appreciated. And yes, I have first done a search on the forum for my answer.

I picked up a 1971 RT1 360 a few months ago. Long story short I was told the bike was a runner but when I got there the guy selling it couldn't get it started so he sold it to me for $1k. After adjusting the points and kicking it about 80 times it now starts within the first couple kicks. I've since been going through and fixing small stuff, put a new carb on, resealed the header into the cylinder, etc. etc.

When it came to the first clutch cover removal, the plastic helical actuator guide was destroyed. I have not sorted the clutch itself but the bike ran fine before I took it apart. I ordered an XS actuator off the internet that has the metal guide and actuator and retrofitted the existing case to accept. Here is where I need help: now that I have done the actuator swap I cannot adjust the actuator enough to move the clutch. When I can squeeze the lever all the way the rear wheel is not free when I try to push even if the bike is warm. When I keep adjusting it the lever becomes unusable and tight before the clutch engages. Can someone enlighten me on a proper adjusting protocol for this retrofitted setup? Do I need a spacer or some other mod to make the actuator rod push earlier? Different clutch cable with more travel? Any advice greatly appreciated, will post photos soon.

Hi Jammyyammy, I'm just thinking through the components that could cause your clutch lever to 'feel' heavy. Perhaps the obvious one is have you or a PO fitted heavy duty clutch springs? Do you know the condition of the clutch actuator arm bearing? I'm ignoring the cable as a problem since you say you've already tried two out, and hopefully routed them correctly with no kinks. Does the handlebar lever operate smoothly without the cable in situ, as it is possible to overtighten the lever pivot nut and cause the clutch handlebar assembly to nip the lever.
Lastly could you have possibly wound the clutch actuator arm adjustment screw in too far? If so this would cause the adjustment screw end pawl to rub excessively in it's locating slot hard up against the clutch actuator arms internal shaft. If so hold the adjustment screw steady with a screwdriver, undo the 17mm locking nut and back the adjustment screw off by 1.5 turns anti-clockwise. You can now wind the adjustment screw back in clockwise but only screw it back in up to a MAXIMUM of ONE turn (One turn gives the full range of available adjustment) that suits your clutch setting, and retighten the locking nut. Remember to hold that adjustment screw still while you are retightening the locking nut.
Hope this helps.  Andy.

Send me a PM.

Yep, this little gadget has brought my project to a halt for the moment. I saw a NOS enduro unit sell for $345 on on eBay and its gone now! I could not get the lock nut to budge but I was able to forcefully back out the rod adjusting screw out quite a bit. I hope this will be enough to allow the pressure plate to come up against the clutch plates normally. Dang, that lock nut is really stuck to the actuator body. It is not moving.
If I get binding while under load, I may carefully file down the threads in places to compensate for the expansion of the nylon threads. 

Yes it is a 3 spiral. Some of the XS650 parts were similar or identical to the Enduro.

Sorry didn’t see the pic above, so is that a 3 start for a 650 that fits a dt3. I didn’t know they existed. More things to learn.