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The one that Mauser used has the offset arm like the Enduro.
 

Thanks Mauser,
but you used a different unit. Other lever and worm gear drive. I couldn't use the old holes. Mine is from Mikes XS650. It was talked about here sometime ago.

Hi there,
I heard that some of you successfully mounted that XS 650 actuator into RT/DT models. Today I tried it, but failed. The actuator touches the chain. The whole systems is a few mm higher than the original one. Now I wonder what went wrong. I don't see many chances to save the cover. Has anyone an idea?
Here are some pictures:
 
Mikes XS 650 actuator kit

 
milled out cover with threads for worm drive

 
new worm drive mounted

 
worm drive from the other side

 
at this points the chain touches the actuator lever

It would be great if somebody could give me an advice what went wrong or how he did it.

With kind regards
Franjo
 

If its slipping its not because of oil but either the operating actuator worm is dry & sticking & holding pressure on the clutch rod, or adjustment is set with no free play. But my guess is it needs more spring pressure or new fiber plates plus leave out those pesky rubber rings between all the plates. Ignore my rambling if ya way ahead of me as not read back to the story right now.

Hello all,

thanks a ton for the replies, I apologize for the delay but, you know, life happens. I realized I left an incomplete modification process with yall. I forgot about how I swapped the actuator screw:
 
on the stock screw I cut the tacks with a grinder that held it in to the part with the little bearing to separate them. 
at this point I could put the XS screw in and tack it in place of the stock RT screw so this is what i ended up with
   
"plug and play" after this.

BACK TO THE ORIGINAL PROBLEM.
I took the system apart and put it back together again 15 times trying to get it adjusted right with no luck. Then gave it another go one day and LOOSENED the adjuster screw instead of tightening it and now its working great.  Pretty embarrassing but hey, that's the way she goes sometimes. If anyone wants more details on the process for their own project I'd be happy to pass on what I learned. Thanks everybody!

Here's some random pics i found showing it mounted on the other angle so might be the way to go.   

Gosh, mine must be getting close but not touched yet. Mind you i don't use the clutch except for moving off but don't tell anyone. Only say that because its at its closest point when clutch lever is pulled in at the handlebar. Sprocket nut still tight?. Not sure how to overcome that if you bought another actuator--its either RD350 or similar but wondering if ball was missing all along so to get it to work they've wound the cable up to which pulls the arm up & closer to the sprocket before you even start, so get closer once on full lift. All a guess but needs a new one. I'm using RD250-350-or 400 & works good. On my first one i mounted it under the little cover & retained by that little cover. Works perfect but is a pain to adjust as cover holds it together. Must've used a longer pushrod to reach on that one but gives it plenty of clearance that way. I guess the number you put up is the DT original but not what you have, so the actuating worn cut in the case plus extending out a bit will be gone.
Got to start it on the right spiral & have four choices on that type but only one is the right one. Looking at how far out it is you might find you can start it around one spiral but the cable arm probably won't go all the way back down before running out of travel. Then make sure the ball bearing is in the arm center. Its a compromise with that setup & as the pic shows it can't be mounted perfectly vertical as other small cover screws get in the way.

Great news Roland in finding the 'real' leak site prompted no doubt by RT325 who did correctly query your initial diagnosis. It reminded me of my own error following a complete engine rebuild. I convinced myself I had a clutch actuator arm seal weep (arm enters crankcase from bottom on '75 250B). It turned out to be from the clutch rod adjustment locking nut which I'd only done up finger tight knowing I'd have to revisit it when I reconnected the clutch cable. Oil had weeped past the fibre washer tracked down the crankcase and finally dripped off the clutch actuator arm. Anyway well done on finding/sorting your leak and enjoy the riding. Andy