I'm trying to disassemble an extra set of forks from a DT175B, to use the fork sliders on them in place of the rust-pitted stock ones on my 175. So, using a vise, when I try to remove the allen bolt from the bottom of the leg, it won't come all the way out and just keeps turning. That is with the fork cap/spring still in place to hold some traction, as recommended in the shop manual. I've tried the other one by first removing the fork cap and spring, but the same thing happens of course. Any tricks for getting the allen bolt out and then the sliders to come free?

Thanks,

Laura

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I use a air impact driver to remove those allen bolts.

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Electric impact works too. I keep the spring and cap in place and try to collapse the fork as I zap the allen loose with the impact.

Works 98% of the time.

Occasionally, I've had to make a tool to hold the damper rod from spinning. Often an old broomstick tapered down and hammered into the damper rod works. (Of course the spring is removed for this)

Or on some models the damper rod has a slot in it that a VERY, very large and long flat blade screwdriver will fit... I don't have a screwdriver that large so I've made a tool with a piece of flat steel bar stock ground to width and hammered into a socket... makes like a large flat blade screwdriver... then with an extension and ratchet you can hold the damper rod from spinning.

Wrote a story then lost it, guts was i have yamaha tools for that purpose & will take a pic, but just cheated & google imaged something similar & there are other shapes too. most common one i used was the sharp tapered tool on a long T bar & fitted most dampers. Just a tap with a hammer to lock it in then away ya go. Slider is actualy the lower bit & the tube [rusty bit] is the stanchion but no worries, fork tube--that sounds easier than stanchion. The important bit is to get that damn allen screw out. Probably been locktited in previously. You might be lucky to preload the spring as much as you can & still get the cap back on then get it to hold. Good luck as i know it's a pain when things like that happen.

What they said, plus for the fork where you already have the cap and spring removed, you can try putting the upper in a vise (wrapped in an old inner tube of course) and pulling the upper and lower tubes apart as you hit the allen bolt with an electric (or pneumatic) impact. The rebound spring shown in RT's last picture will provide some friction. I've also had this works about 98% of the time.

I appreciate the tips! I was afraid to try to force the upper (stanchions... I knew that term from way back when, but didn't remember it until I saw it here) and lower tubes apart, but will give that a shot with the air or electric impact wrench on the allen. And if that doesn't work, I will proceed with the other ideas. At least this is just the extra set of forks, and I can still ride the DT175 while I work on this as I have time. And when I do remove the forks on the bike and work on them, things should go much more smoothly after this.

I hadn't seen that topping out spring in the pic. Not sure if it's DT175, was just a random image. Be good if it works though as i agree it might 'just' tip the balance & hold it enough with a rattle gun spinning it. They can be a real pain sometimes.

i just ran into this last week. with the spring out you can look in the fork and see the piece the allen bolt screws into. i smashed the end of elect. conduit flat, ground the edges so not too wide and slipped it in the fork tube and wedged it so the attachment wouldn't turn.worked great.
a borescope in there gives you an idea of how your new ''tool'' should be shaped.
funny, i posted your same question a few weeks ago and didn't get any responses.
bob noffs

After a lot of mucking around I got one loose. Yes still locktite in there.
With the knowledge I have now I should be able to do the other more easier.
One thing I did also was rinsing out all the oil residue to create more friction when pushing in the rod that isn't supposed to spin when loosened.

Included is a picture of what to expect, so one can make their own tool.  

Ahhh, ok... on that type I made a tool a long time ago.

What I've found works excellent is a "Gator Grip" socket... the kind that has a bunch of spring-loaded pins and fits over pretty much any oddball shape. Home Depot, Lowes, many auto parts stores carry them.