Thanks, I think I was just used to my KLX where it bolts solid., I didn't consider it was the play from the idolator/cushion like on a street bike.

Speaking of sprockets, to replace the front one do you have to take the whole left cover off, or is it split like he stator side? I have a feeling the whole cover ha to come off but Ijust ant to make sure I am not missing something

Morning Srsnow, I've been following your rear sprocket thread with interest and think that maybe the reason for your unexpected 'play' in the assembly is due to the same quirk I found when stripping/rebuilding the rear of my bike. I couldn't understand why a PO had put washers on the 6 sprocket retaining bolts, between the sprocket and carrier. Anyway I deliberately left the rogue washers off and rebuilt the spocket carrier, offered it up to the wheel hub and carefully rocked and rubber malletted the two together which was a very snug fit as I'd used new rubber cush drives.  However it felt odd that whilst there was no radial play (nice tight cush drives) there was far too much lateral play and a mettalic contact feel too. I realised the 6 bolts were bottoming out on the wheel hub suggesting they were too long which confused me as I was 100% sure they were the original Yamaha OEM high chromed bolts. Anyway after much head scratching I eventually worked out that the rear sprocket although looking incredibly OEM by appearance was in fact a slightly thinner replacement. Clearly the PO had the same problem when he'd fitted the sprocket and solved it by fitting the extra  6 washers.  However his solution had actually created another problem that RT325 eluded to earlier in one of his replies to you, and that is the overstressing of the large C circlip. The sprocket was impinging on the groove and it explains why during my original disassembly the C circlip was rock solid and a right SOB to remove. Anyway to cut a long story short (too late I hear you say..!!) my solution was to simply cut the 6 sprocket bolts shorter by about two threads each and put it all back together, obviously leaving the offending washers out. Result was a super snug fit no radial or lateral movement and a C circlip that fitted correctly into it's groove. Hope this helps. Andy.