I converted my DT360 to the VAPE 12 V ignition system.  I've blown my 2nd H5006 12V headlamp with probably an hours running time on each.  The switch key provides brake lights in the on position.  The headlight and tail light are working off the light switch.  I have no turn signals or instrument lights at this point.  For those who are familiar with the VAPE system,   do I have the wiring correct or is there a better way?

I know, that's hard to read. I guess I don't know how to wire a headlamp or size a picture correctly either. Is this wiring wrong or is there a better way?

How do you have the VAPE connected to the lights?  Headlight now runs off battery? 

How did you connect that part?

Presumably the kit came with a 12v rectifier/regulator unit and this has been wired in as per the instructions?

Put a volt meter across the battery terminals with the engine running and see what reading you get.

It should come with a regulator rectifier box, my old power dynamo setup did a excellent job and I was running a 65 watt headlight bulb.
it was a D/C kit which included the rectifier/regulator control unit. or did you get the A/C kit which has no regulator/rectifier unit? if it has no regulator, it's going to pop bulbs unless you can find a 12 volt A/C voltage regulator. I think you can buy the rectifier/voltage regulator separate from a kit.

I took the easy road with good intentions.  I intend to mount the VAPE module under the left side cover when I'm finished. Other than the obvious wiring in the photo, I followed the instructions from VAPE and connected the three wires beneath the oil tank.  I also bypassed the OE rectifier as instructed. 

A couple of potential issues....  you need to get rid of the "scotch lock" connectors.  They are notoriously unreliable and will give you nothing but problems.

Second is the regulator case must have a good ground.  It looks like you might have the ground wire on a rubber mounted bracket?

Bottom line is you need to make sure you have solid connections at the battery connections and regulator case.  If a scotch lock at the battery or the regulator case ground connection goes intermittent from vibration or something, voltage can spike.

So then what "three wires under the oil tank" did you connect?  Yellow and a couple of greens?  If you also removed the rectifier (and connected white and red together) then everything should run off the battery.  Headlight/taillight should power up if you turn on handlebar switch even with engine off and key off on your model. 

I wire that type completely different because I don't like the lights working without the key on or engine running.  But the way you done it should work just fine. 

First step is make sure you have solid grounds and solid connections.  That's likely your problem. 

Edit:  On the DT360 the key might need to be on to get headlight to work the way you have it wired.  I haven't slept enough and need to take a look at diagrams.  Lots of changes in the mid 70's

"I wire that type completely different because I don't like the lights working without the key on or engine running"
I would also prefer to have my lights work only when the key is on also, if it isn't difficult to do.  The ground on the regulator is to a bolt that has no rubber insert.  It is to the exhaust hanger bolt that bolts directly to the frame.  I think you are right about the ground though.  When I attempted to remove the ground spade from the battery, the wire came loose easily and left the spade attached to the battery.  The 3 wires connected together below the oil tank are green and white, green and red, and yellow. If you have an idea to have all the lights come on with the key, I would appreciate it as I often forget to turn the light switch off. 

I repaired the ground and now  all the lights work.  But maybe not like their supposed to. I also replaced the jumper wire from the ignition to the lights in the headlight bucket with an inline 10A fuse.

(1)Key on--light switch off---headlight and brake light work. If you turn the light switch on, the headlight get brighter. Why would this happen?
(2)Key on--light switch on--headlight, brake light, and tail light work. I know, just don't forget to turn key and headlight off. 
(3)Key off-light switch on--head light only. Does this have anything to do with the headlight getting brighter in example one when the key is on?

This bike has a NOS main wiring harness and a NOS ignition switch.