Hi all -
I am replacing the clutch on my 1974 DT360A and decided to replace the crank seals since they are likely leaking (i am the guy with the daahh daaahhhh dahhhh dahhh deceleration and no air leak elsewhere.

Popping them out was easy using a couple of longer drywall screws after drilling a couple of very small holes with a low speed bit coated in grease to catch the shavings

MY QUESTION IS the seals I removed hat the flat side of the seal - the one with the manufacturing markings that you typically place the seal driver (er um socket) against facing in towards the main bearings. I am assuming that I removed factory installed seals and this orientation was proper but wanted to be sure, so i am asking...is this orientation OKAY?

thanks
Martin post 2 :-)
OC CA

lips facing transmission oil...i think i just may have answered my own question

If you have a factory crank seal with the bumps on the edges like the one pictured
www.picclickimg.com/d/l400/pict/26444936...l-93103-38086-00.jpg

the side with the bumps goes IN towards the crankshaft.

If you have aftermarket single lip crank seals, install them with the spring side in towards the crankshaft, and letters out, and make sure not to install them deeper than flush, or else youll block the oil hole to the main bearing.

thanks!
That's how i found them and how i will replace them too since i got NOS

okay - another one for you if that's okay
the needle bearing under seal for clutch bell crank thing...I see no form of retention beyond friction in manuals or on bike, so what's best way to pull it out?

if you dont intend to reuse the bearing, a pilot bearing puller kit or a blind bearing puller kit from amazon will do the trick, especially if the case has been warmed up

I am working on my first engine rebuild and tried a leak test, the primary gear seal leaked miserable. (I did have the bumps facing out) Do you add any rvt black , or grease?

if you pin pointed the leak to the seal then only option I see is to remove it and replace in proper orientation

i have built many engines and would never use RTV on a deal or any internal part other than very lightly coating a gasket, or split seals on an old american v8 intake manifold or rear main seal as specified

thanks!

i will def warm up the case

there is an o-ring that goes behind the primary gear that prevents air from being sucked through the splines, also on some other 2-stroke yamaha air can leak past the square keyway so motoseal works there to stop it leaking

Just to confirm picture "A" goes crankshaft side in "B" faces outside, and the seal should just be flush with the case