Hi Gents

Whilst the motor is being peeled, I’m focusing on the “rest” of the problems.

We have a very tired and probably retired carb (see pictures).

My question is, what is the right carb from my 76 DT250? I can see 575 stamped beneath the choke.

Chap off the DT club FB page just pinged me.
Didn’t realise that the carb and frame/VIN prefix should marry up (575 in my case).

So, based on this does anyone have a good replacement carb. I’d like to stay original as possible really.

Tapping an oil line in is fine but I’m concerned about the fit.

I have a used carb off a 1975 DT250, same carb as a1976, it came off a running bike but that was about 2 years ago but it was stored properly (no fuel left in it and sprayed down with penetrating oil) probably best to clean it and rebuild it, I also have a new in the box Mikuni vm28 that I converted with the proper jet sizes and added the oil injection nipple if you are interested. I also did a write up on here on how I converted a new Mikuni vm28 with the correct main and pilot jets and added the nipple for the oil injector line, the new set up worked well with just a few modifications.

Thanks. Yes, I did read that thread btw. Great content!

With the new carb, did you notice any difference or issues? Feel free to send me a link if you’ve posted before!


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Found it again.
Ok. If the motor works out, I’ll get a new carb.


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More than you ever needed or wanted to know about carb stampings

Just as an FYI, the above statement regarding matching of the model code to carb number is true in some cases... it's certainly not true in all or even most cases.

*Yamaha stamped a "model code" into the carb. On some years/models (such as yours), the "model code" is also used as the VIN prefix. This is not true for every bike. (Model code lists can be found in the Tech Library here)

*VIN prefix and/or model code sometimes changes from year-to-year. Model code stamped into carb is sometimes from a similar model and does not always match. Example: 1975 and 1976 USA DT250 has a VIN prefix of "450" but the actual model code is "498". The carb is stamped "498"

*There are also usually more than 3 digits stamped in carb... usually below the model code. Often a letter and a number. Something like "E2". Or sometimes the code is five numbers long i.e. "49861" The extra numbers/digits beyond the first three can identify a jetting revision or variation of some type... including the year model of a carb. Example: USA DT250 carb is stamped 49861 in 1975 and 49862 in 1976.

*If you can find it, Yamaha service literature often has the carb stamping listed as well as a VIN number range. This is probably the best/most accurate way to ID a carb. And there's often no way to know if the carb absolutely correct without this data... (keeping in mind Yamaha data is not always the most reliable)

I agree that information you were given that your carb is very likely original for your bike is accurate... I just didn't want anyone to run off searching for a "numbers matching" carb that may not exist for their bike.