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Makotosun

DT 175B Tail light and Throttle cable questions.

  • JimA
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Can someone tell me how to remove the reflector and socket from the back plate on the tail light? I want to take it apart to either polish or re-chrome the back plate. I was trying to remove the rubber gasket on the rear of the assembly thinking that once that was off it would come apart, but It was not coming off easy and I was afraid I would break something.

My other question is trying to find a throttle cable for the DT 175B. looking at the OEM parts lists at various sites it lists Throttle Cable 1, Throttle Cable 1 DT 175B( upper cable, handlebars to the splitter), Throttle Cable 2, Throttle Cable 2 175B (lower cable to the carb and oil injection pump). The cables for the DT 175B are usually not available, and if they are, they are really expensive.
Does anybody know what the difference on the cables for the B model is?

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give me.
04 Apr 2020 17:18 #1

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That mirror surface looks pretty nice to me. I'm just saying.......
Schu

CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B,
DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50, SCR950

Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
04 Apr 2020 17:34 #2

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Replied by Gr8uncleal on topic DT 175B Tail light and Throttle cable questions.

DEET here on the forum makes some cables - This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
05 Apr 2020 00:40 #3

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  • JimA
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The reflector is fine on it but the chrome base has rust pitting on it. Taking it apart would make cleaning and polishing it a lot easier.
Last edit: 06 Apr 2020 08:40 by JimA. Reason: Misspelled work
06 Apr 2020 08:39 #4

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You may consider using a Dremel tool with the buffing/polishing attachments. I have used mine when there was a tight space to polish or like you, I was trying to polish a part without disassembling the whole thing for a 10 minute round of polishing.
06 Apr 2020 09:50 #5

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Use water to make a thick paste from "Bar Keeper's Friend" or "Zud" powdered cleanser....

Coat the rusted areas... no need to rub... keep paste damp and/or replace it every few minutes.

Rust will disappear without any rubbing or buffing.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
06 Apr 2020 11:37 #6

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  • JimA
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Thanks MarkT I will give that a try, I have some Bar Keeper's Friend on hand.
06 Apr 2020 21:38 #7

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I apologize for thread bombing you but, would that bar keepers friend work on pitted fork sliders for a runner bike, MarkT?
07 Apr 2020 18:06 #8

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I've never used it on forks but it works like magic on many other parts like the chrome wheels and pipe on my MG1T... pipe was really bad...





It won't fix pitting... it will remove the rust and looks 100% better with no scrubbing or buffing.

P.S. Oxalic acid is the key ingredient.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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07 Apr 2020 18:29 #9

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Thanks MarkT. I think I’ll try it. I knew it wouldn’t do anything for the pitting, but I wanted something to clean it out and then I will skim it with epoxy or similar. Luckily it’s not on the seal area.
08 Apr 2020 07:54 #10

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