Next quandary was how do I get the glue from the tube and the activator from the pen right inside the spigot without blocking the brass tube?

A few minutes pondering and "ping". A cunning plan is formed.

I will bring a suitable length of 3mm viton O ring bootlace from work. We have rolls of the stuff in different sizes for making O rings and bootlace gaskets.

Pass it through the spigot and out of the filler...

Push the end by the spigot into the end of the tube...

Put the activator liberally on the O ring bootlace a couple of inches from the end and the glue on the last inch of the lace and the tube. Open up the (now oil free) crack, apply the activator and the adhesive liberally. Close up the crack.

Push the tube through with the lace in front. Activator and then adhesive will be smeared through the inside of the spigot.

Pull out the bootlace which has protected the end of the tube from blockage.
Trim other end of brass tube to length.

Barrel has been returned... With the front corner of the top cooling fin bent down and a corrosponding flat corner of the box it was shipped in.
Thanks for that Parcelforce. They must have fired the parcel into the back of the delivery van with a catapult. It was well wrapped with corn packing shapes and mulched cardboard to protect it and they still managed to damage it.

Or it is the curse in action...

Luckily it was a straightforward bend and deft application of tyre lever soon had it looking respectable again.

Piston is a very nice sliding fit with no real discernable free play in the skirt with piston at TDC.

Checked ring gaps, both a very tight 12 thou and a loose 13 thou, so just very slightly above min allowable. I can live with that.

Barrel came back very clean and a note saying it had been thoroughly cleaned and ready for fitting. A quick wipe test with a white tissue soaked in brake cleaner came back with no residue on it, so I am happy there.

All ports have been radiused on all sides. No problem there.

Since I bead blasted the old paint off and tapped out the threads before sending it away, all that remains is waiting for a can of satin black paint to arrive, so I can paint it, refit the hardware and crack on with fitting it all back together.
I thought I had a new can in stock, but as ever, it was an old can sat on the shelf with not quite enough in it to finish the job.

I repaired the oil tank with the brass tube and it seems to be a strong repair. Fingers crossed. Ensured it was completely debris free inside. I am leery of that check valve getting held open with debris after suddenly dumping £20 worth of oil on the conservatory floor.
Could have been worse, could have dumped it through the carb into the crankcase..

Then it is time to change the stator side crank seal and reset the timing.

You'd be very lucky to straighten a fin without it breaking. They're very brittle i thought. Good though that it worked.

Yeah it was brown trousers time when straightening it. It was not a sharp "ding" the entire corner was crushed down leaving the gap between the front corner of top fin and the next about 5mm smaller than the rest of the gap. Managed to ease it out a little with a little heat from a blowlamp (the ball of spit trick) and a tyre lever stuck in the fin root. Not perfect, but you would likely have to know it is there to spot it.

As for the rest, I got the head, exhaust and oil tank on, checked the timing - no difference beween the TKR piston and the genuine yam 2A7 one. Still smack on the mark at 1.8mm btdc.  Edit..  Now my brain has cooled down I dunno why I expected there to be any difference.. Doh!

The difference in quality of finish of original rebore and new one is night and day. Shame pics are not working.

Got the carb to refit, the fuel tank and seat. Still got to pull the rotor and stator to fit the IT175 crank seal and get it started.

Having a little trouble bleeding the oil pump right through to the oil injection line at the moment just by pushing back the pulley and working the plunger. Had that before and for some reason it would suddenly bleed itself with engine idling and pulley pushed right back.  I guess it needs intake vacuum to help prime the pump from dry.  Should have been more liberal with the oil during reassembly.


In the meantime, I will mix a couple of litres of premix at 40:1 and get the pump bled and a couple of heat cycles into it using that.

Glanced at carb slide and noticed it was a 2 not a 2.5 as noted in the factory manual.  Got all excited wondering if this was why it was slightly rich in the mid and top ranges.  Cross referenced it with the UK spec parts book. Dang it, clearly states 2.0mm cutaway.

Too hot in the conservatory now. I abandoned ship when the thermometer hit 35c and sweat was dripping off my nose.

Edit.  Thought I would re engage with the thing for a quick half hour.  Pulled the rotor and stator, popped out the seal, fitted rhe new one and put it all back together.
I am all hot and bothered again.  That heat is punishing.  Not acclimated to it in the UK.

I am sure those in the southern US are thinking 35C? A pleasant spring day to go for a quick jog.

 

Since we hardly use metric, I went to look at the thermometer… we are close to that! Which is 94*F…
The Scanda-hoovians around here are melting.
Sneezles61

Put it all back together this morning. It fired up at third kick. Had a stuck float but a quick tap with a screwdriver handle sorted that.

I reset idle at 1400 and left it idling for around 10 - 15 minutes to get up to operating temp then shut it down to cool off.
Far quieter than before and appears to have just a bit more zing in the exhaust sound.

Heat cycle number 1. What is the general consensus on number of heat cycles before gentle riding?  I think i once saw a film where yamaha production test riders just did one gentle lap around the test track and then parked them outside the crating department.
Dunno if the engines had been run prior to this.
In the past, my rebuilt engines only got one heat cycle, one short test ride, and then kicked out the door for the general public to abuse.  As I get older, I get more paranoid and expect more things to go wrong.  Two strokes did not seem so fragile in the past.

Digressing..

Once running, the oil pump primed itself almost immediately and with pulley held back, soon spat all the bubbles up the tube and into the carb.

I still added 100mls of Bel Ray Si7 to the 3/4 full tank of fuel though, just for piece of mind for the first tankful. Usually add about 50mls to a full tank. Old school practices that I cannot shake.

Once it has finally had its test ride and everything settled back into place, I can recheck min pump stroke, set the pump cable properly and fit the small vent pipes back on the carb.

I must tell myself repeatedly that out on the road... NO MORE THAN 4000 RPM for the first 500 MILES at light throttle this time around as per the owners manual, instead of relying on heat cycles, open throttle durations and the other scientific breaking in BS that floats around on the internet.



I hope this is the last of its little antics.  I doubt it though.  Perhaps the next course of action is to enlist the services of an exorcist.

Very informative writeups TINKICKER. Makes good reading.
Keep them coming please with pics when that service is available. Thanks.

Thanks RT.
I always feel people enjoy reading posts more that lay bare every feckup, every bout of pure bad luck and reading about the grim determination to carry on and sort it, esp by ex pros.
No one enjoys ego ridden posts about the guy who never puts a foot wrong and knows everything.


I take a lot from this forum and view a few on here as probably the worlds foremost authorities on these little Yam two strokes who never fail to give excellent information and advice.

Just try to give a little back  with my little tales of woe.  Hope they add to the forum and encourage others to have a go when it all turns bad.

You would not want to hear my break in procedure and would likely call it "BS". 

I've been using my method since the 1980's and have always ended up with very strong running engines that last a long time. 

For decades most manufacturers have been running new engines hard on a dyno before the vehicle leaves the factory. The rings have already been seated before the new owner starts the bike for the first time.  There's Yamaha videos out there showing this...  I didn't find the Yamaha video I was looking for...  here's one from Suzuki with the relevant scene starting at 13:24.

Tinkicker, IMO, you are 100% correct in your assessment of what people like to see/read about. I’m a little embarrassed by how many times I’ve had to buy the same part 2 or 3 times due to screwing it up the first few attempts, but I guess that’s what is known as learning.
You are also spot-on about all the very helpful folks on this forum. Id still be trying to figure out lots of stuff without them.
I’ve only done a light restoration on my bike - I want it to look and perform good but still look it’s age… If not for inspiration from some of the fine folks here, I may not have attempted some of the work I’ve done.
So, kudos to you and all of the great helpful people here!