Hey all, I’m brand new to motorcycles and wrenching and thought it would be something fun to get into. I picked up a 72 DT2 for a couple hundred that had been sitting for about 6 years. It has compression and a good spark. I’ve been unable to start it with starter fluid or premix. I know the carb bowl seems to be leaking some and that the spark plugs are wet with fuel after trying to start, I also can smell some burning when I’m trying to start. I did take the carb off and cleaned the jets and put in a new gasket. I have noticed the choke won’t stay depressed and just springs right back up. I guess my question is where the heck can I start to get this thing running? Haha 

Below is the factory service manual, did you verify the jets are factory or close to factory? What condition is the air filter? Try a new plug? Is exhaust  pipe carboned up? You probably want to validate correct timing if everything else is good. Hope others chime in with additional suggestions.

www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/service...360cc-service-manual

Greetings from Tennessee. 

Welcome from NZ. I'm on a borrowed phone away from home so not sure what I'm doing. But-6 years parked you can pretty much guarantee the oil tank has gravity feed dribbling through the pump & a faulty ball & fine spring on the outlet union heading to the cylinder. So I'm guessing wildly that your wet plug is mostly oil wet. No easy answer but i would just remove the exhaust & with plug out plus ignition off then push it around in say second gear & spin it up. You'll make a mess, but!!. Alternatively what I'd first try is hold throttle full open for a good few kicks & see if there's life. Choke has a flat spring strip that sits under a lump on the choke arm to hold it open. Helps keep it closed too sort of but the internal spring does most of that. The spring bar will have moved to one side, have a look. Can drain the carb out the side mounted main jet just be carefully tightening it. Other possibility if it was parked after it stopped & wouldn't start is that the magneto flywheel crank key has broken off from someone having the flywheel off to do the points then not tightening the flywheel nut fully. Common issue 'that'. Phone has predictive & its a pain. Something changed to cholesterol haha. Hope it all makes sense now.
 

My bike sat for close to 30 years before I got it so 6 years is nothing . Cleaning out the carb is a good the but there is an important o-ring that get set in the bowl, it’s very small and often gets overlooked.  I typically don’t like using to much starting fluid as if you spark, getting fuel and air you should be good to at least getting some popping 

For the "choke" (which is really a vacuum system).; note the metal in the choke handle is "high tensile steel..."

Verify detent (pic below) in good shape to set choke on, down. The spring seats the vacuum plunger in off position, essentially blocking vacuum, and preventing "choke" fuel flow through emulsion tube, up.

Thank you guys for the responses. So far I’ve been able to fix the choke and clean the exhaust out. Still no luck starting though.
Next move will be taking the flywheel off and checking the woodruff key I guess. When I go to actually adjust what exactly am I adjusting? Is it the screw that holds the points plate on? Sorry if that’s a dumb question I just can’t decipher exactly what I’m adjusting to get to points to startopening at 3.2 btdc

I guess I should have clarified when I adjust points timing what am I supposed to adjust? 

Sounds to me like petcock might not be shutting off or has been left open and engine is badly flooded with raw gas...  if plug comes out actually "wet" it's almost certain that it's flooded with gas and/or crankcase is flooded with autolube oil from sitting.  Not uncommon and not easy to "un-flood" sometimes.  If you remove the pipe, you might even find the head pipe full of gas and/or oil.  Worst thing is giving it more gas, carb needs to be kept dry until the excess fuel is expelled...  which might be impossible if petcock doesn't shut off.

Don't ignore the warning/advice of the float bowl oring that was mentioned.

If you have spark, I wouldn't touch any adjustments unless/until you're sure you know what you're doing and have the tools.  If you want to check the flywheel key and have the correct puller, that should be okay. 

 

If it were 'me' [& ya probably lucky ya not me] at this stage forget the timing 'as such' & if the crank key is ok just set the points open gap to 12-14 thou & see if she'll start.
If the key is ok & you can see any kind of gap within the ball park just leave it alone providing you have spark.
As MarkT says-- its likely flooded up.
Now i read i see Mark said similar to me Re--don't touch it if you have spark & get the right puller which is 27x1 left hand thread most common one out there. Sorry i should've read updates first.